Author Topic: DIY led layout (Read 5638 times)

Twizted1 · « **on:** June 24, 2014, 09:10:58 »

Trying to figure out the best way to evenly layout the LEDs for the seahorse tank. The heat sink is 15.5 x 5.25. I have 12 rb, 6 4500k whites, 6 10k whites, 2 uv & 2 reds. I just thought I'd mix it up with the reds & uvs. I have 80* optics but not sure I'll need to use them for the bc29. Any thoughts on layout?

Twizted1 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 24, 2014, 09:14:38 »

Thought I'd put the reds on the blue channel and the uv on the whites.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #2 on:** June 24, 2014, 09:45:54 »

I'm thinking two rows
Blue 4500 blue 10k blue 4500 blue 10k ect
Blue 10k blue 4500 blue 10k blue 4500 ect
The just spacing the reds and uvs in the middle.
Or maybe
4500 blue 10k blue ect
Blue 10k blue 4500 ect
I think I like the latter.

I would like to try and fit the original moon lights in here too. I may still play with that idea?

Twizted1 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 24, 2014, 10:14:48 »

I think maybe a little more spread out.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 24, 2014, 10:49:41 »

I also have 3 spares, one of each. Should I just go ahead and use them?
I think I like this one.

lazylivin · « **Reply #5 on:** June 24, 2014, 12:22:18 »

The spread out style is dated. It causes disco effect. I would put in tight clusters so the light blends. You can then spread out the clusters for more even lighting.

Are you going for 10k look?

Twizted1 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 24, 2014, 13:17:32 »

Quote from: Lazylivin on June 24, 2014, 12:22:18

The spread out style is dated. It causes disco effect. I would put in tight clusters so the light blends. You can then spread out the clusters for more even lighting.

Are you going for 10k look?

Something like that. I want white light. But I still want the colors to pop. I wish I could light it up and change until I find the look I want. I'll keep playing with the layout. Thanks for the feedback.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 24, 2014, 13:25:55 »

Cluster like this? I still have 80* optics I can use too.

lazylivin · « **Reply #8 on:** June 24, 2014, 13:55:25 »

You got it.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #9 on:** June 24, 2014, 14:01:32 »

Then just space the clusters evenly apart?

Twizted1 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 24, 2014, 14:23:40 »

I think this one is a winner.

lazylivin · « **Reply #11 on:** June 24, 2014, 14:56:08 »

That looks good but you may want to add the little 2 peice clusters to 2 of the existing clusters. I am assuming that they contain the RED and UV. The Red is very noticibale on it's own.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 24, 2014, 16:12:30 »

Got them all glued down. As suggested I put the reds on the clusters on the ends. I kept the uv by themselves. They won't have any trouble blending. Just have to figure out how to chain them so it looks nice. Also still need to figure out if I am going to use the optics or not.

Kenn · « **Reply #13 on:** June 24, 2014, 16:28:02 »

Nicely done

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #14 on:** June 24, 2014, 16:42:03 »

Yes, you want optics......probably 80 degree is fine. The LED's without optics are just too spread out. You may not want to put optics on the red.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 24, 2014, 16:45:40 »

Will use the optic. I agree on the red. It is crazy bright. I'm thinking I should have not put then in here. But wanted that spectrum for the macros we hope to grow. We shall see. I am a little apprehensive about the wiring part. But I'm about to start that now.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 24, 2014, 17:10:08 »

Ran into a slight problem. Wasn't that big a deal. I had put the LEDs to close together & the optics would fit. The glue wasn't set just yet and I was able to pop them off adjust and reflux them. You can tell in the pic how much room I should have left.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 24, 2014, 21:45:56 »

I only had time to wire the blues. Hopefully someday this weekend I can finish it. I have no clue on how to wire it to the driver and pot. No directions to speak of. I tried to light the row up by hooking pos-pos & neg-neg and ended up frying an led. So I need to research it more before I try it again.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #18 on:** June 24, 2014, 21:55:15 »

There are 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals on the starboard , use the terminal that is easiest to get to. Take a close up pic of the starboard if you are unsure which are + and -. and need help.

The Positive wire from the driver connects to a positive terminal on the 1st LED in the string. Then you connect the negative terminal of that 1st LED to the positive on the next LED.....and so on to the last LED in the string, where the negative lead from the driver connects to the negative terminal of the last LED in the string.

What are the specs of the drivers and LEDs You need to match the correct quantity of LEDs to the driver.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 24, 2014, 22:14:50 »

I started on the + side of the first led to the - side of the next. Rotating + to - until I ended up back on the - side of the starting LEDs.

The drivers are Meanwell lpf-25d-42

LEDs are Bridgelux
Wavelength: 452-455nm
Forward voltage: 3.5V @700mA
Radiant flux: 400-420mW @ 350mA
Max. current: 700mA
Beam angle: 120-140 degree
Operational temperature: -20C ~ +70C
Part No.: BXCE4545452-G1-Z
Data Sheet DS-C15

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #20 on:** June 24, 2014, 22:22:39 »

Here is the spec sheet for the driver. http://www.meanwell.com/search/LPF-25D/LPF-25D-spec.pdf

The driver is up to 42 volts 600ma. Your LED's are 3.5vf. So divide 42/3.5 = 12 LEDs (The min voltage is 23.1, so the minimum LED's in the chain is 7)

The wiring on the drivers is

Input Lead
Brown -110vac Hot
Blue - AC Neurtral

Output Lead
Red LED +
Black LED -
Blue Dim +
White Dim -

Twizted1 · « **Reply #21 on:** June 24, 2014, 22:27:28 »

I have 14 LEDs on each driver. So that's 49v so I am under powered.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #22 on:** June 24, 2014, 22:34:50 »

The driver can be overloaded a little. Plus 3.5vf is the spec, not all LEDs will pull that much volts.

It does appear to be able to be overloaded to around 54v before it will shutdown, but I'm not sure I would plan that far of an overload. If you want to try 14, when you power up the string, measure the actual voltage and see how far you are over.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #23 on:** June 29, 2014, 18:19:11 »

Finally got the whites all wired up. Everything looks good. But there are no instructions on how to hook these pots up. The driver has four wires coming out of it on one end. Red, black, blue & white. And blue and brown on the other. On the on end I connected the brown to the live and the blue to the neutral. On the other end I'm assuming the red = positive on the led and the black = negative side of led. But the blue and white connect to to pot some how? The pot would need grounded I would thing? Any ideas?

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #24 on:** June 29, 2014, 20:01:30 »

The driver requires a 0-10v signal. If you only have a POT, then you need a separate power supply for the voltage.

The POT should be around 10kohm, and you need a 10v power supply. Take a look at this.
http://www.menarilighting.com/rapidled/documentation/Potentiometer.pdf

of course make sure the POT matches the one that Rapid sells.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #25 on:** June 29, 2014, 22:23:32 »

I appreciate the info.
Wish these things came with instructions. Also wished the kits would come with everything you need. I picked this driver because it wasn't listed as one that needed the extra 10v power supply.
Can I run both pots of one power supply? Or do I need two?
The pots only markings are 2013 th-1 100ka.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #26 on:** June 30, 2014, 07:37:32 »

That is true DIY, figure it out. IT takes time to make instructions. Very few drivers accept a resistor input, most are 0-10v or PWM (pulse witdh modulation)

Measure the POT with a meter. 1 power supply should be fine

Twizted1 · « **Reply #27 on:** June 30, 2014, 08:10:21 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on June 30, 2014, 07:37:32

That is true DIY, figure it out. IT takes time to make instructions. Very few drivers accept a resistor input, most are 0-10v or PWM (pulse witdh modulation)

Measure the POT with a meter. 1 power supply should be fine

Lol true DIY is right. Thanks for all the help.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 01, 2014, 12:25:55 »

Didn't realize trying to find a 10v power supply locally would be such a fight. So I guess I'll have to order it on the line and wait.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #29 on:** July 01, 2014, 15:22:07 »

Yes, I doubt anyone has that locally.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #30 on:** July 04, 2014, 10:09:33 »

I give up. I'll at someone that knows what they are doing to get these working. Followed all instructions, double checked everything. Checked al connections with the little tester they sent. All I get is the first led flashing. When I turn the knob on the lot it makes it flash faster or slower. Does not light the strand. Thought it may be the driver, but it's doing the same with both drivers. On the blues I don't get anything at all. This is driving me crazy. I just need this completed, anyone know why they are doing?

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #31 on:** July 04, 2014, 13:11:50 »

Can you take good pictures of the wiring?

Twizted1 · « **Reply #32 on:** July 05, 2014, 18:45:52 »

I have taken some apart at this point. But here is a video of how they are chained together. And how the 10v supply is connected. I had the neg from the supply and the neg dim from the driver connected to the tab to the far right. And the pos dim from the driver to the middle tab on the pot. I have tested all the connections and all passed. I tested incoming from the drive @ 42.5v. Also tested the connection of the 10v supply @ 9.7v. Something is wrong somewhere.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #33 on:** July 05, 2014, 18:53:59 »

Can't get the video to load. Here a few close ups of how they are chained together.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #34 on:** July 05, 2014, 18:56:38 »

Here are the pots.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #35 on:** July 05, 2014, 21:17:39 »

Are you sure that you don't have a short circuit in the wiring. The wires are stripped a bit longer than they needed to.

What was the voltage on the dimming wires on the drivers?

Twizted1 · « **Reply #36 on:** July 05, 2014, 21:38:15 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on July 05, 2014, 21:17:39

Are you sure that you don't have a short circuit in the wiring. The wires are stripped a bit longer than they needed to.

What was the voltage on the dimming wires on the drivers?

I didn't even notice how much I striped. I was in a big hurry when I done it. I do see a few places that are kind of iffy. I'll pull them off and put fresh wire on. The dimming wires read 9.84v.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #37 on:** July 29, 2014, 21:41:34 »

Anyone that knows how to, want to make some money finishing these LEDs up? I haven't had a chance to touch them. Hoping work slows just a little so I can get some things done.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #38 on:** August 27, 2014, 22:30:43 »

Still looking for some help with these LEDs. Anyone?

Neogenesis · « **Reply #39 on:** August 28, 2014, 08:08:42 »

Joe,

If your ever up this way....bring them with you. I'll get them figured out.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #40 on:** August 28, 2014, 10:27:12 »

Quote from: Neogenesis on August 28, 2014, 08:08:42

Joe,

If your ever up this way....bring them with you. I'll get them figured out.

I'll take you up on that. Thanks man.

Neogenesis · « **Reply #41 on:** September 30, 2014, 12:50:17 »

How are the lights working out now that they are over the tank?

Twizted1 · « **Reply #42 on:** September 30, 2014, 17:00:09 »

Quote from: Neogenesis on September 30, 2014, 12:50:17

How are the lights working out now that they are over the tank?

They are great. I didn't use the optics. And have them as low as they'll go. And that still may be to bright. Lol. Thanks again!

2024 Ohio Reef Frag Swap

Author Topic: DIY led layout (Read 5638 times)