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Author Topic: Diatom Question  (Read 2211 times)

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Offline H2Ohio

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Diatom Question
« on: April 07, 2014, 09:00:06 »
My new to me 28g LED nano was fully cycled with a mix of 1/2" 6 month old sand and 15 lbs of new Argonite Reef Flor +1" that I added (and washed really really well by the cup-full) and the tank was clear in the first few hours and stayed that way for a month.  Just before the swap I added another 15 lbs of the Reef Flor so I would have a deeper sand bed for a future goby or possibly jawfish once the tank is mature.  Of course I did not wash this out as well at all and ended up with a very cloudy tank that must be full of silicates because 7 days later I'm having a regular recurring diatom bloom on the sand.  It looks like "wait" is the common practical approach.  I'd typically been running lights on for 9 hours and noticed how bad it gets just over that much light.

I have just a few small $10 starter frags from the swap (playa, zoa, duncan & hammer).  I do have a mini refuge going in the back with chaeto and a light on when the main tank lights are off.  I had been changing about 2 gallons a day because of the cloudy water and water is at least clear now.  What is the shortest time for lights on to minimize the bloom does anyone recommend?  Or by cutting lights on to half the time am I just doubling the time it will take for the silicates to deplete?  Reviews seem mixed if GFO does any good for diatoms.  The diatomns don't seem to grow at all under the  pidily 2ws (total) of actinic moonlights, but not sure if that low level of light has any benefit to the coral either.

Before i realized what the gold/brown bloom was I was checking all my water parameters and they are all right in the ideal range.  Was suprised Phosphates are actually at zero thinking the diatoms are algae.  All tests through API set but the bottom of the scale colors are the easiest to compare.

I'm going on vacation next week with a non reefer watching our house, I hate the thought of coming back to the tank after 7 days untouched with the bloom still going on.

Offline Twizted1

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2014, 09:06:30 »
The things to think about is how old are your lights? And flow. If you can increase flow across your sand bed, that will help. I have noticed that old bulbs seems to increase the chance of blooms.

Offline H2Ohio

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2014, 09:15:56 »
The tank is all LED and about 7 months old now.  I did notice the accumulating area does have the worst flow.  I think i have an extra powerhead I could direct across there at least until this has cleared up.

Also: None of my CUC seem to touch it.  Did read online nertite snails will consume them (don't have any) and copepods will as well (which I don't think I have yet).  I'm trying to resist my nature to quickly try and solve by "dumping" something else into the tank but any advice is appreciated.  I would consider adding either of these two as something I'd like to have in my tank anyway.

Offline Twizted1

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2014, 09:42:43 »
I would add some snails to your cuc regardless. I would rush anything. Sometimes things just bloom. I would add more flow to the area and get some snails. And see what happens. You have LEDs, so your good there.

Offline H2Ohio

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2014, 10:44:45 »
I do have some bumble bee, narsicus and a Turbo snail(s).  I havent seen anything venturing into the diatoms. 

So what is the shortest number of hours of lights on you'd be comfortable leaving your tank for a week without concern over the starter frags?

Offline Twizted1

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2014, 10:57:50 »
My lights are on from 10am to 9:30pm. Most people don't run that long of a light cycle. Some even run as short as 6 hours a day.

Offline ReeferMadness

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2014, 13:09:13 »
I just recently added some fighting conch snails and they immediately  started working on my diatom problem even after being shipped in the freezing cold for 24 hours.

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Offline marineman

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #7 on: April 08, 2014, 11:45:54 »
Ok, so you used some existing sand with an existing bio filter, then threw in a crap ton of new sand, which proved to be loaded with more silicates than your biological filter could handle. At this point, it would have been ideal to let the tank catch up. However, patience may be a virtue, but it ain't easy, so you also added some livestock. This essentially added insult to injury to your bio filter.

The best thing you can do at this point is to help it out by removing as much of the gunk as possible. The water cleared because all your cloudy goodness settled. A couple gentle gravel cleanings would help get some of that out. Odds are, you will stir up more gunk and cloud your water again, so have some fine filter material around to help pull out more sediment. Repeat regularly until you see the diatoms diminish.

You also mentioned having a couple "dead zones" where the diatoms are strongest. Adding flow to those areas has already been mentioned, and it is sound advice. These areas will also collect extra food and whatever other stuff sinks in water. Not good, so try to find a flow pattern that minimizes the dead zones on a permanent basis. You may want to look into stronger pumps for the nano since the stock ones suck.

Rinse your food to remove phosphates, etc (a good long-term practice as well), and keep plenty of sand sifters in the tank with the amount of sand you've added. Keep it clean, especially since the nanos don't have great filtration. A mix of nassarius, cerith, and nerite snails is almost a must, and others can be added too. Be careful with cucs early in a tank's life - they are dirty (and possibly toxic, depending on the type) when they die. I'd also watch a conch in that small of a tank. I've had a 28 nano for years and they never make it long, probably due to starvation. A note on pods - you probably got some in with your chaeto and existing sand if you got it from a healthy reef tank. If not, seed some.

Regarding testing, keep in mind that it is often inaccurate. You are testing what is in the water column, which doesn't account for whatever nuisance algae is using up. If you have bad stuff, something is feeding it.

For a light cycle, you can cut to 6-8 hours if you want, but the nutrient issues are still the main issue, not the photosynthesis. Don't light it up all day long or anything, but I'd keep my focus on nutrients if I were you.

For now, get a small cleanup crew, and be patient - it will cycle out. Keep up the husbandry (water changes, light sand cleaning, and fresh filter material), too. The nano will require that forever, but particularly in the early stages.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2014, 11:52:44 by marineman »

Offline andys1982

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #8 on: April 08, 2014, 12:15:15 »
^+1.  Very nice synopsis, although caribsea aragonite claims to be "silicate free".

Offline H2Ohio

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Re: Diatom Question
« Reply #9 on: April 08, 2014, 13:45:57 »
Thanks for all the responses.  Pretty much confirms what I had been finding out myself and its nice to see other opinions. 

Maybe it's just time over last gravel cleaning but the bloom seems way more intense with a 9 hours of lights on versus the 15 of lights off which prompted by initial question of how safe for the new corals is the minimum number of lights on while I am away from the tank.

And of course of all the CaribSea substrates, all that I saw on Dr Fosters do say free of silicates except for the SeaFlor Special Grade Reef Sand.

Nothing like a vacation to do the ultimate process of "leave it alone".  Will keep of gravel cleaning and water changes right up until I leave.

 

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