Rayk's 180 upgrade Stupidity

[rayk]

So I've dreamed and planned and dreamed for a 8 ft x 36 inch deep, 374 gallon monster.....   not to be just yet.  Job uncertainty, economy, declining dollar, kid in college.... all lead to putting off that dream for just a bit.  Job uncertainty is probably the biggest reason for all this, not that my job is going away, but my company has been talking about a move/promotion to Boulder, Colorado, possibly when my son gets out of High School in 2 years (and another one in college).  

But, I'm sick of a few things.  First, I don't like the length of my 120.  While it is great for a mainly reef aquarium, I also like a few active fish, wrasses and such, and they just don't have far to go until they turn around or disappear behind rock.  About a year ago, one of the local retailers had a sale on large aquariums, so I picked up a 125 pretty cheap, and put it at my work office as a FOWverylittleLR, HOT Remora, etc.  When we moved offices to a newer, nicer building, I decided my homemade stand and no hood wouldn't look very good, so it moved to my basement for storage.  But one thing I learned, is that I absolutely love a 6 ft long aquarium.  That extra 2 feet just makes a huge difference in the swimming patterns of the fish.  

My original plan as of a week ago was to drill the 125 myself, add a calfo overflow.  The second thing I don't like, as I've been reading up on, is the overflow system that all-glass uses.  While I'm sure it is fine, I'm going to go for a much longer overflow, therefore skimming much more of the top layer, and try and direct feed that into my skimmer.  If I can't direct feed, I am at least going to isolate that water better than my current sump.  

But, that same local retailer is trying to clear out all their large aquariums from the stores, so I picked up a 180 for a hell of a deal.  So, here are the design goals (sorry, the engineer is sneaking out).  1.  Has to be in the basement.  We have alot of room upstairs and some cool places, but we have long joists spanning the floor, so almost anywhere either gets alot of direct sunlight or will bounce with the floor.  2.  Has to be somewhat out of the way in the basement, for resale later.  My wife is a Realtor, so she understands this pretty good.  IF, big IF, we could redesign an area of the basement 'around' the aquarium, maybe a wet bar Caribbean style, etc., then it could be a centerpiece.  But since we still need to redo kitchen and master bath first, that is WAY down the list.  So it needs to be in a 'hobby area', just like a wood shop or model railroad or whatever.  Or so she says... hell, she's letting me put it somewhere at least, can't complain too much if I'm confined to my man-cave.  

More explanation when I link the photos....  

[rayk]

So, where this is going in the basement.  We have a back room that was a wood shop for the previous owner, but became a storage area and 'fish room' for us.  The problem is, the 'fish room' is totally not visible from the basement, so anybody who even wants to see the aquarium walks through our neatly organized storage area....  

Here is a picture of the basement.  It is a mess right now as I had to move stuff out of the storage area to start working.  The blue tape lines on the far back wall behind the air hockey table is where the entrance to the fish room will be, just to the right of the door to the storage area.   The aquarium will be 'in the wall' about 10 feet into this room, allowing us to put some cozy chairs.  


Other info, the couch in the foreground is looking at the big screen.  The 125 is there to the left, but it doesn't stay there.  It will be used during the transfer process, then sold off.  

[rayk]

Here is the current 'fish room', with my lonely 120.  The stand is 'about' where the 180 will go, and I'll frame up 2 foot of wall on either side of it, and dry wall it in.  I am going to put my light rack on some kind of sliding system, but haven't figured that out yet.  I have to contend with the beam in the ceiling.  Thinking about using garage door rails.   I'd like it just to move up and down on some kind of pulley system, but I think the beam is going to not allow that. 



yes, for now, I will still only have 1 400 Watt MH over the center of the tank, with some VHOs for support.  May even wire up my other Icecap 660 ballast with some daylight bulbs.  Not sure yet.  One step at a time. 

[rayk]

And the final picture for today.  This is where the opening into the rest of the basement will be going.  Just another note, the basement wall is not straight, it dips out for the bay window upstairs, which is why that beam is there.  So to the left of this hole in my drywall is the outer cement wall, and a nice little notch for cozy chair.



Not sure on timing on all this.  I tend to get going, then run into a delay and progress stops for a month because I get busy with work or real estate investing or something.

But the 180 is sitting in the garage, by tonite I should have a big hole in my wall, and sometime this week I hope to try and make my external overflow box out of acrylic.  If the acrylic holds water, i'll be ordering the hole drilling bits and bulksheads from glass-holes.com. 

[Lost Floridian]

It looks like your going to be very busy for the next few weeks, months, your gona be busy for the next year!

But it seems like your on your way, and I cant wait for the grand opening!

[HUNGER]

with all that work u will just be evern more happyer when its all done and its going to look great  when done

[lazylivin]

I am jealous of your fish room. Must be nice to have that kind of space to work with. Looking forward to seeing it progress as I love the 6' width as well.

[rayk]

Took off a little early today, and ........  put a huge hole in the wall.  No turning back now.   Funny, when I rehab a house, I usually hire folks to get it done faster and usually correctly.  For some reason, when it's my own not-for-profit project, I suffer through this myself.  Only one small cut in my left hand, which won't affect typing tomorrow at work.   Now, since I have a wire in the way, will switch to acrylic project for tonite until my uncle advised on the re-wiring. 

From the basement family area looking in:


Closer:


And the view from inside the room, looking out onto the mess....  poor sixth grader wanted to have friends over Friday nite.... but we are disaster central.

[jd]

Oh man, this is a RC-esque thread already. I cannot wait too see your results! Please keep it coming!

[HUNGER]

yup no turning back now

[rayk]

After having an acrylic confeti party in my driveway and failing miserably at making a square cut on my makeshift workbench, I have given up on the acrylic overflow box.  I'm starting to wonder if the acrylic I got is too thin anyways.  So, looks like ordering precut 3/8" glass on Monday for the external overflow box.  I really liked the idea of water-testing an entire acrylic box versus actually making the glass box right on the back of the aquarium, and not water testing until bulkheads are in place.  I still may see if someone can manufacture it for me, but at this point, I think I'm safer with glass (note this thread is not in the DIY forum on purpose).   On the plus side, I'll be able to drill the glass bottom of the overflow before I put it in place, so if I screw that up, can always order new glass for just that peice.  Anybody know good glass shops in the area?

We should be framing up the doorway to the new aquarium viewing room this weekend, moving a power wire, and possibly even framing up the wall where the aquarium will go. 

I'll order the glass bits from glass-holes.com on Monday as well, because regardless of external overflow box material, I still need three holes in the back of my 180. 

- Rayk

[rayk]

Okay, finally got the drill bits ordered, glass peices, etc.  Should get things rolling again this weekend.  ya ya, I know, its been a month+....  For anyone wondering, although I highly doubt it, we had a family vacation/cruise get in the way of this project, then the very next week end (April 10th) I injured my shoulder snowboarding in Colorado.  I am finally able to raise my arm a bit, MRI came back today negative so no surgery.  Construction/destruction begins anew.  The wife and kids are plenty happy with the 3 month+ long construction process in the basement.... 

- rayk
livin large in the Creek of Beavers

[rayk]

I posted the glass peices for the external overflow box in the DIY section, under my original thread.  I'll have some of the final assembly here.  But for now, just had another small algae outbreak, with Nitrates reading 0 ppm, Phosphates at 0 ppm, 7 TDS on my RO/DI water, so I just replaced the DI resin and back to 0, but 7 ain't bad.   One explanation that I'm seeing alot is that my algae is so efficient, it is using the Nitrates and Phosphates before I can read them.  Probable.  Also, reading how folks don't have to clean their glass after upgrading skimmers, so I said screw it, time for a bigger skimmer.  Going to need one with the new tank anyways, and probably needed one sooner.  I have an AquaC 180, and although it pulls alot of scum, I'm sure there is more.  

I didn't do a lot of research, just asked around a bit, read some forums.  Not ready to debate the decision, because I doubt I can defend it, but ended up getting one of the last MDX250A's today from Marine Solutions.  They no longer work with SWC, although Jeff is designing some of his own skimmers, so they don't have many left.  I wasn't real thrilled about getting a 'close out', but hey, read good things about the skimmers and Marine Solutions, so...   They even assembled it on site while the kids and I looked at corals and fish, so just brought it home, dropped it in the sump and fired that baby up.  Didn't worry about vinegar break in, it will get there eventually...    


Initially, just dropped it in a rubbermaid tub on top of some live rock in the skimmer.  I will construct something more permanent out of PVC when the 180 gets in place and we move the sump.  

[rayk]

One thing I've noticed so far is obviously the bubble difference between the two skimmers.  Just from an 'oxygenation' perspective, this has to be better... 




versus the AquaC 180


and together:

[HUNGER]

so the bubble king is better hummmmmmm

[lazylivin]

That is a really nice skimmer, I am sure you will be happy with it.

[rayk]

Hrm.... 1 week break in period eh??   maybe not on my slimy tank!   18 hours after install and got gunk, and the silly thing isn't even leveled in the sump yet. 

[HUNGER]

that is good

[lazylivin]

I think it's time to rename this thread Rayk. 

[rayk]

Rename the thread?  Surely you jest.  I'll just have to give you an update to justify the name once again:

Yep, Mother's Day, and gift to the wife is stay outta her hair and actually make progress on this dang tank thing in the basement.  I was going to put up my wall studs and drywall today, but then I figured I better make some progress on this tank, since I could very well break it and who knows if I could find another 180 as cheap as I did this one.  May end with different size, or just using the 125 sitting here.

So, the plastic bracing on the top needs to come off.  I want eurobracing anyways, without the plastic center braces, but my external overflow box demands it also.  That process started today.   

I don't recommend this to anyone, but this is what I did:

Materials:
-  razor blades, razor blades and more razor blades
-  good razor knife, preferably with some kind of finger grip hanle. $8 one versus a $3 one, belief me, your fingers will thank you.
-  putty knife. 
-  one box of band-aids or other blood-stopping mechanism. 

The key here seems to be sharp razor blades.  Call me silly, but they work so much better than dull ones.  Change frequently.  If you had 2 knifes and had someone changing blades while you cut, then handed you the new blade as soon as they got it installed, that would be best!   

Process I used:  didn't get photos of all of it, sorry.
1.  Widdle away at one corner, to get to the glass.  This will take a bit, and several blades.  You have to widdle from the inside and on the outside corner. 

2.  The easiest way seems to be to score the top of the bracing just about on the edge of the glass (to the outside).  It seems to want to break here.   Again, lots of razor blades.

3.  Getting started in the corner is the hardest part really.  I had to wiggle the putty knife in, to start breaking off the side of the bracing.  The goal here was to get to the top of the glass.   

4.  Once the sides are off, you can easily access the silicone on the top of the glass holding the bracing on. 

Belief me, I tried 10 different things to pry the first section of brace off.  I even used a wood block and a hammer.  Didn't want to budge.  Only way was to cut the sides off, and get at the silicone that way.  Was pretty easy, refreshing blades.  Maybe 3 blade changes per side. 


Getting started in a corner.  I didn't show the scoring with the knife, but you can see where I cut it on the top edge.


Little further.


Sides are off, so the putty knife can separate the top of the bracing from the top of the glass. 


And... its off. 

Now for the razor blade scraping of the silicone, some kind of acetone rub, and maybe a light sanding with something....

[rayk]

Oh, also, now that that bracing is off, I'm getting other crazy ideas.  My original plan was to run a coast-to-coast overflow, internal, about 1 inch in depth.  My external overflow box is 3 feet by 7 inches by 7 inches and will attach to the back via silicone.  To get the water from the coast-to-coast into the external overflow, I was just going to drill some holes (3 probably) in the back, the same size as my 1 1/2" bulkhead holes.

Several problems with this idea now.  First, since I'm going to add a 3 inch eurobrace, I won't be able to get inside the coast-to-coast for any kind of cleaning.  Not sure I'll need to clean it, but for sure need to hide it now, and the plan was to hide it with a thin sheet of black acrylic.

What would be nice, and really crazy, since I have the trim off, is to go ahead and just make the back wall of the tank the coast-to-coast, and use a full 6 foot by 7 inch wide by 7 inch deep overflow box.  I will research how hard it might be to trim off lets say 1/2" the entire length of the back glass... hrm... sounds ominous already.  I've read folks to it easy with rotozip and glass ceramic tile bit.  I have a weaker dremel.  We'll see... 

- rayk

[cyberwollf]

I won't be able to get inside the coast-to-coast for any kind of cleaning.  Not sure I'll need to clean it,

I've already had to get a fish out of mine

[slandis3]

Your build looks good so far. Be ready for some sticker shock when you look at the price of the diamond rotor zip bits i think they are $36 each  I tried to cut some glass with diamond bits in a dremel and it took for ever to get through 1/4" glass.

[KeepOnReefin]

Your build looks good so far. Be ready for some sticker shock when you look at the price of the diamond rotor zip bits i think they are $36 each  I tried to cut some glass with diamond bits in a dremel and it took for ever to get through 1/4" glass.

How long is forever? I have a diamond dremel bit, and I need a small piece cut.

[rayk]

Hrm, I have a dremel and the bits already.  Only used it once to cut a small bulkhead hole on my 30 gallon refuge.  Got some example pictures:


dremel with the guide thing..... i have that.... somewhere.... dang.


Weir Almost cut through (example, NOT mine)


Weir finished...  (example, NOT mine)

Still not sure about this method.  Have to think about it.  But given eurobracing, which now MUST happen, I won't be able to get to an internal coast-to-coast.  

[lazylivin]

That is similar to what I was considering for my build. However with slits up and down so water can come through and not snails or fish. They only thing stopping me is you cant put a background or paint the rear where the overflow box attaches and all the ones I have seen it does not look that nice seeing the silicone through the glass.

This is what I am reffering to. i think you would have the same issue with the cut out unless you have figured away around that. Perhaps if you are going black you could do black silicone.

[rayk]

Skimmer update, this thing is a monster:  40 hrs after install, it is kicking arse and smelling.  Need some baking soda box or something, carbon maybe.  Baking soda cheaper.  Also, kind of puts the AquaC to shame a bit.  The new MDX250A is sitting in a tub fed by 1 overflow.  The other just goes to the sand bucket and into the general sump.  The AquaC is fed from the general sump, so in theory is getting half skimmed water and half un-skimmed.  


MDX250A after 40 hrs


AquaC 180 after 40 hrs of new skimmer.... it was cleaned just before new skimmer was installed.


Sump together...

[HUNGER]

that over flow desing looks cool

[rayk]

Lazy, that is a concern of mine as well.  There are some visual issues with this design.  I was actually thinking of putting a thin sheet of black acrylic on the back, or at least where the external overflow is at.   If I paint or vinyl the rest of it, it might be 'noticeable' but not distracting. 

I'm also thinking of going with the narrow weir even though I'll have eurobracing.  I'm thinking fish would get through my holes anyways and make it into the overflow box for capture and I can rig up a device to get in there and clean a bit (plus I'll cover it up with black acrylic on the outside.)

Here is the design thought:



My other concern is just the 'flow' of water.  The coast-to-coast has done a great job of skimming more surface area, but then the water has to go through 4 submerged holes, then down the drainpipes.  Basically, if proteins jump to the surface really fast, they'll never make it through the 4 holes or the drainpipes.  My corner overflows now have somewhat of the same issue, but at least as soon as the water skims over the overflow, it has a 'chance' to go right into the drainpipe.  I'm not sure I'm real concerned about this, and with the new skimmer, this just theory and I'm really just trying to get the best looking, most functional, cheapest tank I can get at this point.

[HUNGER]

if proteins jump to the surface really fast, they'll never make it through the 4 holes or the drainpipes.  My corner overflows now have somewhat of the same issue, but at least as soon as the water skims over the overflow, it has a 'chance' to go right into the drainpipe


i would worry about that if there was some proten to stay at the top it wouldnt be for long and not much of it and if you are worried about fish getting in there  mite just get a little biger fish

[rayk]

Skimmate from the skimmer is good to drink!!

[rayk]

Okay, so here is my in-wall design idea. 



Dark Blue is the tank
Light Blue is drywall
Dark Brown on top of tank is a beam I have to contend with
Tan is a removable section.  I am thinking 2x2 frame with canvas material and sound-proof foam on the inside... but need to consider it will be somewhat near the MH, so design here may change materials, but concept is same.
Brown box around tank is a nice wood frame, also removable. 

[rayk]

Glass-holes day!  With some free time and good weather, finally able to get to drilling some holes.  

So, here is the plan.  


External overflow base:


One hole down in the external overflow base:


External overflow done:


Nice glass holes:


All done, now if my son doesn't drop it moving back to the garage:

[harleyrider]

Looking good! 

[lazylivin]

Very nicely done. How did you keep the backside of the hole from chipping the glass when you cut through. Did you put a piece of wood behind it and what is the duct tape for?

[rayk]

I read that duct tape would a) prevent backside chipping and b) hold the water in when you punch through unevenly.  Seemed to work just fine.  I have some small chips on the 3/8" glass for the bottom of the external overflow, but I think I got a little impatient on the last two holes.  They took alot longer.  First two went fast, next 3 a little slower, last 2 extremely long time.  Doubtful that my glass-holes.com $16 diamond bit has another hole in it.  Luckily I'm done with the holes.  Next step is to silicone on the external box, just got back from Home Depot with some acetone for cleaning up the glass.  May also get the coast-to-coast weir installed tomorrow.   But, I haven't even ordered the 3/8" top glass for the eurobracing.  On the front, I'm going with 3/8" internal and also a 3/8" cap (3" wide).  On the back, I'm just going with the 3/8" cap peice (3" wide).  Technically speaking, the thickness of the glass 'should' be good for a non-eurobraced tank with a safety factor of 3.5, but I'm guessing the plastic bracing also holds the corners together (safety factor details on the silicone are harder to calculate).    

- rayk

[rayk]

Alrighty, little silicone action this morning after wiping down with acetone all sides and surfaces.  Not the prettiest job in the world, but won't be visible, so I was going for not having to redo it.  Yes, the back piece of the overflow is 1/2" too big, the glass shop got the measurements wrong, and instead of them trying to cut off 1/2" or re-ordering, I knew it wouldn't make a difference.  Hopefully it won't.  Also, it is off-center by 3 inches on purpose...... except it was the wrong 3 inches.  I forgot I was upside down when I did the measurements.  Oh well, was just trying to get it closer to the sump side, pipes will just be 6 inches longer instead of the planned 3 inches shorter.  





- rayk

[lazylivin]

All little things that only you will notice. Definitely digging this thread.

[Kenn]

Maybe we could cross link this with a instructional thread or something.

This is some good stuff.

[rayk]

Well let's wait for some results first before calling this 'instructional'.  Could very well end up 'destructional'.  I've basically counting on having to redo this silicone once, so if it works the first time, I'm ahead of schedule. 

I'm pretty happy with the silicone as it is drying.  The seams look good.  I am a little concerned that I pushed too much silicone out of the seams between the little 7x7 side panels and the tank, and then I may have not pushed enough between the 7x7 panels and the bottom piece.  We'll have to see if it holds water tomorrow.  My biggest fear is that it is fine initially but develops issues after I get it downstairs and running.   The water in this section will only be 5 inches deep, so not a lot of force to contend with. 

Also, I was able to get the top of the glass a little cleaner with a razor blade and some of the acetone and a metal brush.  But, didn't feel like getting the edge close to the floor, so I'll wait until we stand it back up tomorrow.

- rayk

[UDJustin]

So are you only leaving drilled holes in the back glass and not notching it the whole way of the external overflow box? If that is the case I would ask why even build the external overflow at all and not just plumb the holes with out the external overflow?

[rayk]

I didn't feel comfortable notching the back of 1/2" glass with a dremel, so I'm still installing a coast-to-coast overflow.  It will be only an inch deep, then flow out the holes and into the external for export via the overflows. 

- rayk

[HUNGER]

wow great job loooken good

[UDJustin]

ok got ya

[rayk]

As I expected, I have a small leak in my external overflow.  Not to mention while trying to get it all positioned, I knocked it out of level.  Not so worried about the level, but not sure I can fix the pin hole sized leak either.   May end up re-doing the entire thing, strip off silicone and start over.   I figured I might end up doing this anyways.  My DIY skills are less than adequate, so I basically plan to screw up.   If it was just the small leak, I might be able to repair it.  But is exactly where I thought it might be, as I was trying to square all the pieces before the silicone dried, I managed to not press the side plates into the bottom plate.  Exactly where the crappy looking seam is, and exactly where the leak is.   This is also the end that got pushed around a bit, so I really need to push the bottom plate back in to line and I would have been okay.  (The $1875 quote I got for acrylic 380 gallon is looking better and better....  heck, one contract programming job with about the same hours as I've put in so far on this project.... ugh.)

Photobucket is having issues at the moment... not sure when these pics will actually be visible....


and the leak:

[slandis3]

You need to give the silicone 24 hours min to dry. I would wait a week to water test if it was me. You will be putting allot of psi on that glass so you want to make sure its 100% cured.

[rayk]

Okay, after a little food and regrouping, I figured I may as well try to patch the leak prior to dismantling and starting over.  I can always start over tomorrow.    So I stripped out a section on both inside and out, scraped it clean with razor blade, used acetone to get down to bear glass, scraped again just to make sure, let it dry while trying to deal with photobucket.  Then I laid a thick bead of silicone on both inside and outside.    Worst case scenario, it still leaks and I'm still stripping it to redo the entire thing.  Best case, the leak is patched and I have a slightly unlevel overflow that noone will see.     

This external overflow box really won't hold much water, typically only about 3 inches, maybe up to 6 inches during  pump restarts.   The weight of the glass will also be supported by braces on the stand once it is in place. 

Slandis, I did give the silicone about 30 hours to dry.  I think I had the leak regardless, but I probably won't leak test again until Wednesday nite after work. 

- rayk

[rayk]

Lighting Plan:  Currently, I have one 400 watt MH over just half my 120, and 2 4ft VHOs off an IceCap 660 ballast.  I also have a spare 660 ballast.  Trying to be as effecient as possible with cash, I was planning on: 
1.  Orange - 400 W MH over middle of tank
2.  Blue - 4 T5 actinics, 3 ft each, of one icecap 660
3.  Green - 4 T5 50/50 or suns, 2 ft each, of one icecap 660

This was my plan until I run in to some more cash (i.e. bonus restored at work, college kid gets a real job, etc etc).  I figure i need the actinics anyways, so the only additional cost here is 4 2ft T5s, end caps, reflectors, wiring.  That's cheaper than 2 250 Watt MHs.



With no center braces on the 180, I should be able to hang the 400 MH a little higher than I have now to get a bit more coverage and not fry the corals at the top.  Just hoping this doesn't have a spotlight effect. 

[HUNGER]

ya that would work dont blam you for trying to save cash i love my vhos they do great

[rayk]

Didn't get to the meeting today, between working on this beast and grad parties and my son's 17th birthday party....

But, here is the initial framework up.  I am going to work on the canvas sections above and below the tank prior to drywalling, just to make sure it all looks good and I don't have to drywall the entire thing.



And some updated Coral pics, just a few.  Pink birds nest:


Orange Month:


Pic thick birds nest:


-rayk

[Kenn]

Spectacular !

[HUNGER]

great looken monti

[rayk]

After a long delay over the summer months, I am finally back to my indoor projects. I have the glass euro-bracing in place and the full length Caflo overflow in place.  I'll do a water test later this week and post pictures if it doesn't break...

- rayk

[HUNGER]

i have my fingers crossed for u

[rayk]

good so far....   loaded up with water and no breakage...  however my coast-to-coast isn't as water-tight as it needs to be.... so probably end up stripping of the silicon and redoing it.

- rayk

[HUNGER]

well thats good and that sucks but it could be worse

[rayk]

Okay, this is taking me forever....   but finally got some plumbing done and moved the rock and fish over to the new tank.  Still have issues:  micro-bubbles, loc-line on order, etc. etc.

So, here is the main tank.  Junk in the sitting room, but making progress:



And, the look from the main basement... again, junk everywhere at the moment:



And now for the Calfo tank-wide weir.... working pretty good, skimming the top right off!!:



And the last one, the overflow into the box on the back.  Going to have some salt creep issues here:



- Rayk

[HUNGER]

the tank looks great

[lazylivin]

This going to slow Ray. You need to get it wrapped up this weekend. Just kidding but good to see some updates. Hopefully we won't have to wait another 8 months for the next pictures. 

[rayk]

Yeah, still much to do Lazy, much to do.  More lighting, rock work cause I just threw them in there.  Couldn't really see from the cloudy water from newer sand.  At least if I get the rock work done, and get rid of the microbubbles which I found the source tonite, I can let the tank go a bit and work on cleaning up the old ones, and get my basement cleaned back up.  As soon as it settles in though, I'll need some more frags.  I lost a few of the last ones I got from ya. 

- rayk

[lazylivin]

If you want a nice size birdsnest and purple monti cap you are welcome to them. I have to many.

[AdenHoed]

where and how can I pick them up?

[rayk]

This is the build that I was going to tear down this Thanksgiving weekend.   The upgrade from the 120g to the 180g went great..... for a month...  then various problems that lost all the corals.  It has been in stand-by mode for 2 years now.  Fish are doing great, but water quality isn't even ready to try corals again.  I have many theories on the problems from the upgrade, but I also had alot of work and side-issues during this time, so I didn't get to post any of it.  OR get to 'fix' any of it.  After the corals died, I kinda gave up on it.   

The coast-to-coast overflow system is working great.  The BeanAnimal overflow syphon is working great, and silently.  The two big problems were #1 loss of heat - the temp dropped more than I wanted with all the extra water/air interaction, and I'm pretty sure my cheap digital therm was off.  The heaters blew a circuit and I have no idea how long they were off.   The 2nd problem appears to have been my older rock.   It was storing up some nutrients and when I switched tanks, I used ALL my 120 water, but needed like 100 gallons of new water.  This probably caused the nutrients to come out of my rocks, causing the hair algae outbreak also leading to the demise of the few corals I had.    The 3rd problem might have been the lower flow through my above-the-tank 30 gallon refugium.  It has tons of pods in it, providing a great food source.  But I had to lower the flow due to the new tank plumbing.  The 4th problem may be lack of wave action.  I have great flow in the tank, but my vortech died, and it was only source of variability...   My 5th problem... well, you get the idea... 

So I have 2 new projects.  First is a simple, unbelievably simple Up-Flow Algae Scrubber.  I set it up in 5 minutes.  I will take some pics, but it is easily running in my refugium, taking the place of my non-growing chaeto macro algae.    2nd project is going to be a regular waterfall Algae Scrubber in the main sump.   This is almost done, but had to clean up the basement work area for guests today.  The theory being that hair algae grown on a mat will absorb extra nutrients faster than anything else.  After seeing this first hand, with water that tested perfect, I can see how this may well help significantly. 

I will post picks tomorrow, time to make my family's sweet potatoes - basically caramel with some orange squash in it....

~rayk~