new addition

[CrownSushi]

frogspawn is happest...wide open

hammers look they need more time to settle.

my favorate....mushroom pack..
is the one at the center (circled) feather duster?
it's doing in and out...


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[CrownSushi]

more...


what's the green thing in the 2nd pic?
Should I get rid of it? or don't worry about it?




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[micki]

The one you hve circled is kind of hard to tell, but looks like it could be aptasia.  Can you get a better picture of it?

Frogspawn looks good!

[micki]

You have some nice looking zoas!

[CrownSushi]

They actually look much better than on pictures...
I was going to get just a couple of pieces...but
I couldn't resist buying more and more..

[micki]

They actually look much better than on pictures...
I was going to get just a couple of pieces...but
I couldn't resist buying more and more..

I knwo how that goes.   Pictures rarely do them justice.

[Hunter21]

the green things in your second pic on the zoa rock is green bubble algae, I think there's a more scientific term for it, but my brain's fried for the night so I can't think of what it is! lol It won't do much harm unless it gets out of control. Whatever you do, don't pop them as it releases tiny little spores in your tank wihch creates more little bubbles in the tank! 

[Reefinmike]

the more scientific name is Vanolia (sp?) but a emerald crab will slowly but surely take care of that for you. what is circled is defenitally a feather duster. where did you get your zoos?

[Hunter21]

thank you illnino! lol

[CrownSushi]

I got the zoos from scott.
He has so many nice looking zoos.

In fact, there's same one (feather duster?) on an empty shell you gave me today.
little hard to see on the pic.
If try to touch, it quickly pulls back in completely...

If a hermit hosts it, it should be ok to carry it around?
what about in the future it grows real big?
it will be cool to watch...


Vanolia....then I should add one more item on the wish list....emeral crabs.....

if aptasia, peppemints?....

good to know...
anyway, I wanted to have them...


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[Hunter21]

my hermit crab shells have those as well, they don't harm the hermits or anything, they just feed on the nutrients in the water! they just have a free ride around the tank! 

[Slicktrax]

feather duster good, probably will not grow big.  if not many aptaisia, take the rock out and remove the aptasia by hand.  if lots of aptasia, a peppermint might work.

[micki]

If aptasia, I have used boiling vinegar ir kalk paste to kill them.  I've had peppermints and thye havent touched them. But others have peppermints and they do good. 

[Reefinmike]

ive put coral on hermit shells before. i have done green star polyups before, looks cool.

[scott wilson]

Sorry for the amount of algae and cyano on the mushroom rock.  That tank has been through a lot.  You may want to scrub off all of the cyano with a toothbrush and then do a quick fresh water dip to zap hair algae.  OR just get a tang on you with list too it will take care of it and the vanolia (bubble Algae)

Scott

[CrownSushi]

blue hippo tang will do?

I know they will grow big...
How long could I keep it in my 46g before it gets too big? a year?

[CrownSushi]

ive put coral on hermit shells before. i have done green star polyups before, looks cool.

maybe I should try too....sounds fun....

wouldn't it be too heavy for hermit to carry?



either aptasia or feather duster (I bet on feather duster)
I can wait till they grow a little bigger and identify clearly, can't I?

[aquavista99]

blue hippo tang will do?

I know they will grow big...
How long could I keep it in my 46g before it gets too big? a year?

Blue hippo tangs grow very fast and are probably not the best tangs to start out with as a newbie to the hobby. These tangs are ich magnets and are not recommended for beginners in my opinion.

A Yellow Tang is great for any smaller reef aquarium and these fish are easy to care for as well.

[ohioreef]

Neither my YT or BT touch bubble algae, hell they wouldn't even look at the HA I had.

[aquavista99]

blue hippo tang will do?

I know they will grow big...
How long could I keep it in my 46g before it gets too big? a year?

CrownSushi- I would not add any new fish to your system unless you quarantine them first in a separate aquarium for at least one full month. This helps ensure that the fish are healthy, but it also gives them time to get over any shipping trauma, to get used to a new diet, and to put on weight after withstanding often insubstantial feedings at retailers, wholesalers, and collecting stations. More importantly, one can observe new fish for signs of disease and treat them appropriately, while in isolation. Prevention is so important in this hobby. Many new hobbyists fail to anticipate problems and are unprepared when they arise. Adding new fish to an existing aquarium, without quarantining them, is asking for disease outbreaks to occur. If disease becomes evident in an established reef aquarium, there is no known way to treat the problem successfully without removing your fish to a separate tank. But the best way to prevent disease outbreaks from occuring in the first place is by quarantining your new arrivals.

[CrownSushi]

Thanks for the good info.

If fish at LFS look fairly healthy and exhibit no sign of disease for a month or so,
whould they still need to be quarantined at my home?

[micki]

Thanks for the good info.

If fish at LFS look fairly healthy and exhibit no sign of disease for a month or so,
whould they still need to be quarantined at my home?

  You will get different opinions on this subject.  I'm guessing by what aquavista has said he will say yes and with good and valid points.    I personally have a UV steralizer and because of this have never QT any of my fish and have had no problems at all.  There are several on the board that have and have not.  You will get point of views both ways.       

[aquavista99]

Thanks for the good info.

If fish at LFS look fairly healthy and exhibit no sign of disease for a month or so,
whould they still need to be quarantined at my home?

Yes, always quarantine. No exceptions in my opinion. Bare bottom tanks work best for quarantine tanks. Just keep it simple and basic. Better to be safe than sorry. There is no way you can tell for sure if a fish is healthy just by looking at it, unless you are an Ichthyologist and can take tissue samples off the fish.  Usually, disease or parasites will show up within two to three weeks after you purchase the fish, if the fish is sick,  hence the one month quarantine period.

[CrownSushi]

okay, I'm convinced the need of QT.

now, being more specific and practical,
say I set up a QT with my 10g tank, making it simple and basic.
I could take water from the main tank.
I would need a heater.
Do I need a protein skimmer or PH?
10% weekly water change?
anything else?

I don't have to keep it running all the time. just when I get new fish?
How about new corals? Can they carry disease?

too much to learn....
the book is on the way...

[aquavista99]

okay, I'm convinced the need of QT.

now, being more specific and practical,
say I set up a QT with my 10g tank, making it simple and basic.
I could take water from the main tank.
I would need a heater.
Do I need a protein skimmer or PH?
10% weekly water change?
anything else?

I don't have to keep it running all the time. just when I get new fish?
How about new corals? Can they carry disease?

too much to learn....
the book is on the way...

Yes, use the water from your main system to set up your QT because it is established with beneificial bacteria. The QT tank should also be bare bottom (no live rock or sand), which makes it easier to clean, and medicate, if needed.
You can add a small protein skimmer if you like, but at a bare minimum, you will need a power head/pump for water circulation and a heater as well.  I like to add a large piece of PVC pipe to provide cover for the fish as well. The larger the QT, the more stable it will be. And yes, you do want to do water changes as well.....weekly or so depending on your bio-load. If you have a large fish, like a tang, in a smaller QT, then you may need to change water every other day...just depends on your load and whether or not you add a skimmer to the QT.

I use a 29 gallon bare bottom QT for all new fish. I also use a Prizm skimmer, heater and maxi jet power head. If the fish show signs of marine ich, I also add UV light to the system and treat with hyposalinity. The most common disease/parasites you will encounter in this hobby is marine ich. There are only two proven methods to cure ich: copper and hyposalinity. Neither method can be carried out in your reef aquarium (both copper and hyposalinity will kill everything else in your reef). It is so much easier to put your fish in QT first as opposed to introducing a sick fish to a healthy environment.

For more information on hyposalinity, marine ich and QT, go to the following websites:

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php


I only QT fish, but I dip my SPS corals in a solution to prevent RTN before they are placed in my reefs. If you do QT corals, you would need to add so much more (intense lights and more circulation etc.), which would become expensive.