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Author Topic: Tank drilling  (Read 13417 times)

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Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #25 on: July 20, 2011, 10:07:32 »
You could relieve the bottom of the aluminum hole for the thickness of the diamond coating....You would probably have to protect the aluminum from scratching the glass.

Agreed(just bevel the bottom side of the template to the desired thickness; this would also allow water to flow freely around the bit.),  Some 3m Rubber spray would take care of the scratch threat too.   Thinking about making one up on the water jet?  ::) that would be choice Slandis.  Those templates would easily outlive the bits too. 

Maybe take a router and run a channel through the center of the template to allow the water to run out of the plate, and drill a hole beside the main hole in the center of the channel and attach some small diameter tubing with a adpater to hook up to garden hose to constantly pump in water and push the excess out the other side of the channel? :)
« Last Edit: July 20, 2011, 10:31:08 by Boonjob »
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Offline slandis3

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #26 on: July 20, 2011, 10:46:55 »
I will cut it out on a cnc. I am thinking about cutting water groves into it or better yet I may even drill water pockets into it to inject water straight into the hole.

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #27 on: July 20, 2011, 11:07:09 »
I will cut it out on a cnc. I am thinking about cutting water groves into it or better yet I may even drill water pockets into it to inject water straight into the hole.

Sounds good, Thats what meant by the bevel and water channel. So I guess you should have the bits on thursday not me  ;D
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Offline Reefpete

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #28 on: July 20, 2011, 11:16:42 »
Yes the 44-45mm bit will work just fine for the 1"... the 42mm looks like it is more for the 3/4" sch80 bulkheads.

Whatever you say man...Its just mm's
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-abs-bulkhead-slip-x-slip.html

I will cut it out on a cnc. I am thinking about cutting water groves into it or better yet I may even drill water pockets into it to inject water straight into the hole.
Maybe we could figure out a way to use a garden hose fitting that channles water though some sort of water jacket all around the bit opening. Also to attach a divice (not sure of its proper name) to allow a cordless drill to be used as a variable rpm drill press? The cutting board style of plastic could be used as a sleeve to keep the bit from dulling and loading up with aluminium. Also to keep it from scratching the surface

Offline Todd W.

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #29 on: July 20, 2011, 11:22:23 »
Hmmmm if you put more thought into it and a great design, I see a sales opprotunity to possibly a glass hole drill reseller.

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #30 on: July 20, 2011, 11:24:28 »
I meant plasti dip not 3m... sorry

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip


This should work quite well to prevent any scratching to the tank



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Offline Boonjob

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God is great, Beer is good, and People are crazy...

Life is a beach, I'm just playing in the sand.


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Offline slandis3

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #32 on: July 20, 2011, 12:00:41 »
Do you guys think 1" thick plate will be ok?

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #33 on: July 20, 2011, 12:03:53 »
Do you guys think 1" thick plate will be ok?

I personally think that would be more than sufficient.... What all do you plan on making? a seperate piece for each hole size or doing one sheet with all the different hole sizes drilled in it.

I wonder if you could drill some holes for some magnets, and we can glue them in before plastidipping the bottom of the plate and then taking a piece of plastic cutting board etc and putting magnets in it so that you don't even have to use clamps on the jig, you just put the plastic piece on the side you aren't drilling and the jig would be magnetically held in place while you drill.
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Offline slandis3

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #34 on: July 20, 2011, 12:37:40 »
I personally think that would be more than sufficient.... What all do you plan on making? a seperate piece for each hole size or doing one sheet with all the different hole sizes drilled in it.

I wonder if you could drill some holes for some magnets, and we can glue them in before plastidipping the bottom of the plate and then taking a piece of plastic cutting board etc and putting magnets in it so that you don't even have to use clamps on the jig, you just put the plastic piece on the side you aren't drilling and the jig would be magnetically held in place while you drill.


Already looking for strong magnets to use for the plates. I am thinking about cutting the hole in the plate for the largest bit and making spacers for the other holes. Still working on that part of it.

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #35 on: July 20, 2011, 12:49:05 »
Neodymium magnets imo...

I have some circular neo magnets that are usually found in tranny/oil pans, I have like 30 if you want to use a few(only prob is they look like a donut they are circular but with the centers cut out but they are larger than a half dollar so 4 or so should be plenty strength on each piece...They usually take a screwdriver or scrapper to pry apart.
« Last Edit: July 20, 2011, 12:57:31 by Boonjob »
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Offline Todd W.

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #36 on: July 20, 2011, 13:48:43 »
With the Calflo design, has anyone attempted it with smaller pipes than 1 1/2 inch?

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #37 on: July 20, 2011, 13:56:30 »
With the Calflo design, has anyone attempted it with smaller pipes than 1 1/2 inch?

I don't think the return line size will effect the functionality of the design at all, However most people do 1 1/2 only because it allows a good amount of flow weither under a siphon or not... sounds like pete will be running 1" on his
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Offline slandis3

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #38 on: July 20, 2011, 14:15:03 »
On a tank your size I would stick with 1" bulk heads.

Offline Todd W.

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #39 on: July 20, 2011, 14:15:45 »
I don't think the return line size will effect the functionality of the design at all, However most people do 1 1/2 only because it allows a good amount of flow weither under a siphon or not... sounds like pete will be running 1" on his

I just started looking at the plumbing I will need to buy and the 1 1/2" pipe size looks like overkill for a 46g tank.  I am going to look at the 1".... I am also trying to figure out how I can use some 3/4 inch pex that I had to buy in a 100' roll and only used 30' of it.  The pex would be much easier to put in the wall and route to my basement.

Offline Wall_Tank

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #40 on: July 20, 2011, 14:17:35 »
No need to use 1.5" pipe, unless you are planning to circulate that much water.  You can make your overflow thinner if you use smaller pipe.  For the size tanks we have been discussing a 1" pipe is plenty.

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #41 on: July 20, 2011, 15:07:25 »
Running your return in 3/4 -1" would be sufficeint, Not sure if your pex would be good for the return line from the pump. is that 3/4 inside diameter?

I agree the 1" pipe is plenty, I wasn't saying to go with 1 1/2; it's a  bit overkill on your setup imo.
God is great, Beer is good, and People are crazy...

Life is a beach, I'm just playing in the sand.


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Offline slandis3

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #42 on: July 20, 2011, 15:14:54 »
3/4" pex I believe has a smaller inside dia than standard PVC. I will check.

Offline slandis3

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #43 on: July 20, 2011, 15:16:35 »
pex has a .671" ID and pvc has a .824 ID

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #44 on: July 20, 2011, 15:24:20 »
pex has a .671" ID and pvc has a .824 ID


Yeah thought so, So i don't really see anyway to incorporate that pex into your return or overflow lines... Maybe you could use some for things such as reactors,ats,uv etc... though most of those are 3/8 fittings but with a little adapters you could make it work.
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Life is a beach, I'm just playing in the sand.


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Offline Todd W.

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #45 on: July 20, 2011, 16:04:57 »
Yea that would really cut down on the flow, that and mating up different pipes is not easy.  They make the connectors and sell them at HW stores but they have brass in them...

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #46 on: July 20, 2011, 16:19:48 »
Yea that would really cut down on the flow, that and mating up different pipes is not easy.  They make the connectors and sell them at HW stores but they have brass in them...

You should be able to find polymer adapters, but to be honest normal flex and or standard pvc is probably a much more viable/cheaper solution.
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Life is a beach, I'm just playing in the sand.


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Offline Reefpete

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #47 on: July 20, 2011, 16:30:50 »

Already looking for strong magnets to use for the plates. I am thinking about cutting the hole in the plate for the largest bit and making spacers for the other holes. Still working on that part of it.

N52 are the stronger of the neodymium

Offline Todd W.

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #48 on: July 20, 2011, 16:33:54 »
Just called all-glass my tank manufacturer, the bottom and front are the only tempered glass in the tank :)

Offline Reefpete

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Re: Tank drilling
« Reply #49 on: July 20, 2011, 16:39:54 »
I don't think the return line size will effect the functionality of the design at all, However most people do 1 1/2 only because it allows a good amount of flow weither under a siphon or not... sounds like pete will be running 1" on his
Weither?
Actually I am only running 1" bulkheads with 1.5" plumbing. www.beananimal.com

 

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