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Author Topic: Canopy lift  (Read 2315 times)

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Offline Twizted1

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Canopy lift
« on: April 26, 2012, 09:21:02 »
My canopy is awkward, & my wife really struggles with it. So I know it's been done many time in many ways. I have searchrd the net & can not find a "bolt on" lift. And the diy lifts I have seen are well a little hacky looking. My question is, how to make it or where to buy it? There has to be a simple lift with electric motors. I have about 2 1/2 inches behind the tank & I don't want to drain the tank for this project. Here is a pic of my canopy. It doesn't have to open this far. It just needs to open far enough to feed & service the lights (when they go in). Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Offline Boonjob

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2012, 09:35:02 »
Look into Gas charged lift supports....

They are what are on most your trunks and hoods of cars... they help lift to a set point...


They are usually only 10-20 bucks, you can get em online or at just about any auto parts store.... If you got the right strength you could do one large one in the center or 2 smaller ones on the sides.... best part is they will mount inside the canopy which is appears you have plenty of room for one.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2012, 09:40:14 by Boonjob »
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Offline Ashlar

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2012, 21:39:05 »
Hrmm.. gas lifts would work if you don't want to fold the canopy all the way back, but that's an awfully awkward place for the hinge and gas lifts.

Offline Twizted1

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2012, 22:54:27 »
I thought about gas lift supports, but I was thinking more along the lines of just pressing a button and it lifting. Maybe using linear servos or something. Would be nice if someone made a universal lift system of some kind.

Offline Ashlar

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2012, 23:41:14 »
*nod* You could do cables on the front top corner, connected to a linear ram mounted on the back, but even that would only go up to 45 degrees or so..

You could do a linear ram with a curved cam-type deal or a pivot point with an offset leg, but you'd need some beefy rams to deal with the offset angle..

Offline Twizted1

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2012, 23:47:29 »
It doesn't have to flip all the way up like in pick 45 deg may be a little lite but may work.

Offline Ashlar

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2012, 23:55:53 »
Well, if you don't mind seeing the cables across the top when it's closed, that'd probably be the easiest way to do it, mechanically..

And if you put a piece of trim above the top rim of the canopy, that'd hide the cable..

So a pair of linear rams on the back, pushing up, a cable connected to the end of each ram, running to the front top corner of each side of the top..

Offline Twizted1

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2012, 00:13:59 »
That could work. I could get black plastic coated cable that would hide alot. The top of the canopy is over 6' tall & the trim sticks up 1/4" above the top of the canopy. I could use some some pollies to stop the cable from rubbing. I have never wired anything like this before. Would it be hard to get them to each side to act as one? That way there is no binding.

Offline Ashlar

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2012, 09:22:34 »
Well, a strong enough ram in the center could pull both sides at once, depending on the weight, and how good a spot you have to mount it.

Or wiring two in parallel is easy, too. Linear actuators usually don't get out of sync, if you buy the same model from the same place.

Offline Boonjob

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2012, 09:54:22 »
Why not hinge the canopy to open out instead of up? then your not lifting any weight.... be like opening a cubbard?

A circular saw and some new hinges..... Unless you really want that push a button feature?


Just cut it straight down the center of the part that was your lid, remove old hinges, add new hinges, if the weight on the front is too much you could always weigh the back down or just secure it...You can even leave the bracing there just have the front swing out and open

You could then also add racks to the insides of the "new" doors to store your fish food or a hydrometer etc.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2012, 10:01:07 by Boonjob »
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Offline Boonjob

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2012, 10:09:51 »
What size tank is that, I just re looked at the pic... it looks like a 6fter? anyways...

with it being as long as it is, I wouldn't cut down the middle(making it 2 sections), rather I would make 2 cuts both at 1/3 the total length(making it 3 sections)... have the two outside portions swing out and the middle swing up....  You still get the racks... the sides wont weigh anything to open and your only lifting a 3rd of the prior weight by opening the middile section....

This would also allow you to only open sections of the canopy for feedings instead of raising or lowering the entire unit.... and its all powered by you... no parts to fail, will last you a life time ;)


and significantly cheaper than making/buying parts to make a push button feature.....
« Last Edit: April 27, 2012, 10:33:49 by Boonjob »
God is great, Beer is good, and People are crazy...

Life is a beach, I'm just playing in the sand.


http://www.ustream.tv/channel/boonjob-s-reef-tank

Offline Twizted1

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2012, 11:49:07 »
Hmmmm I like shelves.  ;D Storage is always a plus. I am vain enough to like the push button thing. I will give that a thought tho Boon.
O it's a 180G so yep 6 footer.

Offline Kenn

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Re: Canopy lift
« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2012, 13:18:36 »
Why not hinge the canopy to open out instead of up? then your not lifting any weight.... be like opening a cubbard?

A circular saw and some new hinges..... Unless you really want that push a button feature?


Just cut it straight down the center of the part that was your lid, remove old hinges, add new hinges, if the weight on the front is too much you could always weigh the back down or just secure it...You can even leave the bracing there just have the front swing out and open

You could then also add racks to the insides of the "new" doors to store your fish food or a hydrometer etc.

I was going to suggest putting access doors on the front but you have a good suggestion as well :)
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