Author Topic: Where to drill? (Read 3096 times)

Twizted1 · « **on:** May 12, 2013, 20:38:05 »

Finally getting ready to get this dart on my 180. I was wondering where to drill? I hope there is enough room for the plumbing. I only have 2 1/2" to work with from the glass to the front of the pump. I know I have to be careful not to stress the glass. Any suggestions?

Not sure if thats mold or mildew in the corner. I think it's just a lacquer coating gone wrong.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #1 on:** May 12, 2013, 21:08:15 »

Turn the pump 90 degrees.

ReefFrenzy · « **Reply #2 on:** May 12, 2013, 21:36:22 »

Based on that one picture I dont think you have ample room for the bulkheads and proper plumbing with the pump oriented that way. Am I missing something?
Larry

Twizted1 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 12, 2013, 21:58:40 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on May 12, 2013, 21:08:15

Turn the pump 90 degrees.

Will it be able to pull enough water if I turn it 90 deg?

bobdino · « **Reply #4 on:** May 12, 2013, 22:03:03 »

I wolud also turn 90 degrees and put a valve and union between the sump and pump and 1 above pump in case you ever have to replace pump. I would also drill hole near rear corner of sump. this is just my opinion.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 12, 2013, 22:08:36 »

Quote from: bobdino on May 12, 2013, 22:03:03

I wolud also turn 90 degrees and put a valve and union between the sump and pump and 1 above pump in case you ever have to replace pump. I would also drill hole near rear corner of sump. this is just my opinion.

Turn it like this? I can see putting a union between the sump and the pump. Do I really want a valve there? Also I should put another bulk head above the one I'm going to drill for this pump? Sorry for all the questions, I just dont wanna mess this up.

bobdino · « **Reply #6 on:** May 12, 2013, 22:10:25 »

I think each 90 you install is equal to 1 additional foot of head.

bbtm64 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 12, 2013, 23:24:40 »

If you can fit a valve, I'd put one in. Just in case you have to disconnect the pump from the system. A second bulkhead would be usefulto drain the sump if you need to.

Viggen · « **Reply #8 on:** May 12, 2013, 23:36:39 »

I always preferred over sizing the input to the pump when a 90 deg bend is used. If its a 2.5in intake I would go with a 3in bulkhead 90 and a valve. Someday the pump will fail and need to be removed. Putting a valve with a disconnect to me is a necessity so the pump can be yanked or serviced without draining

Neogenesis · « **Reply #9 on:** May 12, 2013, 23:52:23 »

I put unions and valves on both the intake and output. As others have said, it WILL need to be removed to be cleaned or replaced at some point.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 13, 2013, 07:37:39 »

So how do I know where to drill my hole? Do I just mock up the plumbing and trace around where the bulk head should go? How close can I get to the corner of the glass and still be safe? Thanks for all the help guys.

Neogenesis · « **Reply #11 on:** May 13, 2013, 07:40:37 »

How thick is glass on the sump?

bbtm64 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 13, 2013, 07:41:20 »

Personally, I've never tried to drill glass but I'd stay at least 2" off the corner. Mocking up the plumbing is a good idea. It'll give you a more exact location with what you have to work with.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 13, 2013, 07:53:27 »

It's 1/4" glass.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #14 on:** May 13, 2013, 08:21:51 »

Definatly mockup the plumbing, if you use a double union ball valve in there, that thing aint small. And there is nothing wrong with 90's, just a little bit of suction head. But on those pumps, the suction inlet is already over sized.

What kind of strainer are you putting on the inlet. I used one of the large basket strainers.....I let that dictate where to put the hole for the bulkhead. Drilling glass for that size bulkhead isn't that bad, but the hole leaves the glass pane weak. Be extremely careful not to stress the glass when tightening fittings. Back to the double union ball valve.....if you use one of these you can use some screws and blocks of wood to anchor it to your stand. Just so nothing really moves. Go look at my tank build thread....

Twizted1 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 13, 2013, 08:32:06 »

Do I need a strainer? I have a lot of live rock that the water will have to go thru before it gets to the sump.

bbtm64 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 13, 2013, 08:51:24 »

Just a foam block put over the intake would help protect the impeller.

Boonjob · « **Reply #17 on:** May 13, 2013, 09:00:08 »

Quote

Do I need a strainer? I have a lot of live rock that the water will have to go thru before it gets to the sump.

Do you need one, no... Would I run one, Yes. Those pumps can create a good suction. You dont really want anything restircting the inlet. A strainer would be your best bet for protection. If you didnt' want to shell out the $$ on a pvc strainer, you could always do as I did and silicone one of those hyrdoponic planters to your tank around the inlet(like a cage). Would work the same as a strainer but for a fraction of the cost.

Viggen · « **Reply #18 on:** May 13, 2013, 10:17:31 »

O yea.... That's a lot of flow for a 180g return pump. Aren't the dart pumps depending on model 2500-3500 gph at 6ft head depending on the model?

If it was me.... I would use that pump as a closed loop and just get a smaller submersible pump to set in your sump. That way no drilling needs to be done and you would get the proper flow you need.

If you want to see if your sump can handle the flow of a dart w/o setting it up you are welcome to use my red drain 12m3 pump. It was to much flow for my sumps on my 475g so I went with a waterblaster pump

Boonjob · « **Reply #19 on:** May 13, 2013, 11:57:07 »

It's about 2500gph @ 6' head, Which he will most likely have more head pressure. @ 6ft head that pump will turn his display 13 times an hour... If he throttles it back to 80% or so it would be turning his tank @ 10 times an hour... I think that is a good range for a tank of that size....

I bet his head hieght will be closer to 10 ft in total. Its gonna be 4 ft just from the water line in the sump to the top of the tank, and if he makes only two bends he's already at 6' of head pressure... if he goes through a ball/gate valve, that's 7... then he can always throttle the remainder.

He has a 55gal sump(if I remember correctly), so his sump should hold that much flow, but the better question to ask would be if it's set up to handle that much... if he has a bubble trap it may not keep up with the flow depending on how far he spaced everything.

Quote

I think each 90 you install is equal to 1 additional foot of head.

On the money... Each fitting is 1ft head pressure, Each vertical 1 ft run is 1ft head pressure, and every 2 horizontal is 1 ft head pressure.... It adds up quickly.

Quote

I always preferred over sizing the input to the pump when a 90 deg bend is used. If its a 2.5in intake I would go with a 3in bulkhead 90 and a valve

Sound advice, If you dont want to use 1 large hole you can use 2 smaller holes and T them into the pump... So if you want 3" of intake you can use 2 - 2" or 2- 1.5" inlets.... The bigger the inlet space(regardless if its one big hole or several smaller) the less "suction" action you will receive at the inlet.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 13, 2013, 23:05:39 »

Here is my trap. The first gap on the right is 3" the second is 2". The middle piece is 3 1/2" from the bottom.

Boonjob · « **Reply #21 on:** May 13, 2013, 23:16:38 »

lol I think you could hook up 4 darts with that trap and not have a problem.

Twizted1 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 13, 2013, 23:57:57 »

Quote from: Boonjob on May 13, 2013, 23:16:38

lol I think you could hook up 4 darts with that trap and not have a problem.

It's big but does the job.

2024 Ohio Reef Frag Swap

Author Topic: Where to drill? (Read 3096 times)