Ohio Reef
Site & Club Forums => Just Arrived => Topic started by: dbjonesjr on October 19, 2018, 16:27:05
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Hi all! Joined this forum as I will likely be attending the swap tomorrow as long as time allows for me to. I have a 40G breeder reef tank that is in the works. Prior to I used a 28G Biocube and just moved all that over to the 40 about two weeks ago. Currently have a black snowflake and regular snowflake clown along with a lawnmower blenny. Having a rough time with some dino right now though. Hoping I could find some good advice for that on here! Excited to meet you all and really take a deep dive into reefing!
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Welcome to the club, there is some great people here who are glad to help. I went through a spurt with Dino 7months ago. From what I read it Will come back periodically. First r.o. water is a must if you have not been using you need to switch asap and start the water changes. Second diatom and dino get confused, you can tell if it is in fact dino by observing the sand. if the sand seems to look worse through out the day and better in the morning you have dino. Here is how I treated it. I did a series of large water change through using a gravel cleaner, trying to remove the dinos. then I left the lights off for 3 days. The corals bounced back as I had only zoes
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Welcome!
If it is really dino, then you can also use Hydrogen Peroxide to treat it. The lights out method recommended by warhawk937 is a good method to start with, because the peroxide method isn't very easy. You want to put the peroxide on the dino directly, if possible. You can just dose the whole tank, but it could take some time for this to work effectively. Dosing the peroxide is pretty safe using proper dosage amounts, but many reefers frown on adding extra chemicals directly to the tank.
Here is a good page where the reefer tried many techniques and describes their experience:
https://reefbum.com/pests/how-i-beat-dinoflagellates/ (https://reefbum.com/pests/how-i-beat-dinoflagellates/)
I plan on attending the swap tomorrow as well. I hope to see you there.
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dbjonesjr - - - Welcome to Ohio Reef Club!
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Hi all! Thanks for the replies and advice. I am currently dosing H2O2 and going lights out on the tank. I have an RO/DI system and it is certainly Dino (when it builds up the bubbles appear all over). The lights out and H2O2 definitely prevent the Dino from growing but we will see if it actually is working when I decide to go back to lights on. Unfortunately I didn’t have a chance to get out to the meet although I certainly wish I had!
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Ok, sounds good. Please update us after the lights out period. I'm interested to hear the results.
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Welcome
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Hi all. Just giving quick update on the Dino issue. I put the timer back on yesterday/today running the lights from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM. Dino isn’t gone but it’s not as bad as it was. I haven’t dosed H2O2 since yesterday morning so I’ll start doing that nightly in hopes of it making a difference. Working on getting a small system setup to house the fish in case I need to go the hypo-salinity method my LFS recommended.
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Dino's occur most often in a nutrient stripped system where they will out compete algae.
The most successful way of beating dinos is to have your algae outcompete the dinos, and they die.
Can you tell us your nitrate and phosphate levels and what kind of test kits are you using to measure them?
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Yup that’s what I read. I’ll get my test kit out tonight. I was using pho’s guard and purigen and my levels were all 0 when the Dino pipped up. I have since taken out of system and last time I tested levels of nitrates were around 5-10. I use an API kit.
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I would stop dosing the hydrogen peroxide as well as it will keep your algae in check...…..you want it to grow in order to out compete the dino's.
Once dino's are beat, then its easy enough to get the algae in check and under control
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Alright will do! Thanks for the advice I’ll give another update if I see any significant change.