Ohio Reef
Reef Discussion => Tank Profiles & Build Threads => Topic started by: kattz on April 07, 2012, 21:20:40
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Note the par reading through 24" of water and 42" from the LED's! Multiply the 78.5 X 5 and the PAR is 392.5!
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Wow, very cool!!!
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Looks great.
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Awesome. Tank looks great.
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Very nice. What optics are you running. My plans for my swap proceeds are to add another 12 leds to each of my heatsinks and I have been wondering which optic to go with. I have been thinking of going with 6 xp-g whites and 6 xt-e blues which would give me a total of 48 leds per sink. What do you think of those 2 leds?
thanks
Jeff
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Jeff, my optics are the original CREE lenses, a mix of 70's and 80's, except for the cyan and greens, where I ordered 80 deg and received 90's. I ordered some of the last XR-E's in the RC bin in existence, so these will go over the 210g on a new heatsink. I'm also adding the 390nm UV's - 4 to a heatsink- without any optics on a separate driver.
Feedback on the two LEDs that you asked about is very good, but the optics have to be glued on. Some have used cyanoacrylate (CA) to glue on the optics - DON'T DO THAT. You need to use a jeweler's cement or epoxy, as CA will craze the cover on the chip that protects the emitter.
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I didnt have to glue mine on. They just snapped right in place have been holding strong for 2 days like that
What UV leds are you going with, whats the ma on them?
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I think the UV units are OSRAM, and are rated at 390-415nm (barely visible). Current is really low, like 400mA.
I'm going on what others are saying re the optics on the XP-E/G series. Perhaps they bought the wrong optics...
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Holy Par! That is a lot of light.
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Very nice, sir!
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Jeff,
The XP-G Cool White LED's will be a little warmer than you have with your XR-E's. These are also capable of 1.5a.....these suckers are bright. I would not put less than 80 degree optics on these guys.
I have not seen the XT-E's, the Royal Blue XP-E's are really nice. It looks like the XT-E blues are shifted to a shorter wavelength, But I'm sure they will be good.
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Very nice looking setup you have there.
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Holy Par! That is a lot of light.
Yessir. I think too much. That was at the following outputs:
cool white - 100%
royal blue 1 - 100%
royal blue 2 - 60%
cyan - 50%
red - 30%
green - 30%
I've been baking some of my acros, I believe.
I knocked the outputs around this morning and changed the "look" to more along the lines of 16-18K.
Outputs are now:
cool white - 80%
royal blue 1 - 80%
royal blue 2 - 80%
cyan - 70%
red - 30%
green - 30%
With these changes, still at 360 PAR on the bottom, and that's with the sensor shaded by the hammer coral above it.
Mr. and Mrs. Solomon Islands says "Happy Easter"; now you can see why I need to move the nems out of this tank. Huge!
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Why you running the leds at 100%? Isnt their ouput diminishing after 75%?
I also read a par meter isnt effective at measuring leds, is this accurate?
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With LED's, it is suspected that the meter actually under-reads, but I haven't seen anything with data to prove this. I understand the other question; my drivers are trimmed to a max output of 95% of full power to maintain longevity; driving them at over 95% of their output gives you nothing. Some early adopters of the technology tried to overdrive their LEDs and got nothing for it but a replacement bill.
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Kattz
Beautiful tank. You weren't kidding about that monster in the middle. I should have grabbed a frag of that while I was at the swap. Maybe another day.
I'm curious about the PAR, why are you multiplying by 5? I'm guessing it's because you only had one unit on when checking the par?
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The Apogee sensor output is in millivolts; to get the correct reading, set the attached multimeter to millivolts and multiply the reading by 5. Yeah, you should've grabbed a frag! There will be more. Thanks!