Ohio Reef
Reef Discussion => Do It Yourself => Topic started by: Twizted1 on April 26, 2013, 21:52:12
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Ok it I am going to start ordering the stuff I need to change a large closet into a mini fish room. I just need a little guidence to what I may need or need to avoid. I need a mixing tank, fresh water top off tank, pumps ect. I would like to make it so I could hook up a pump to push the mixed & fresh to the tank. It is about 15' with very little head, maybe 2' on one end. I would like a full proof top off system with full proof back ups to avoid any messes.
So what kind of pump(s) would be best. I'm thinking 1 for fresh top off & 1 for the mixed. Total of 2 pumps.
Any worry about left over water in the lines?
I am going to have the RO-DI unit filling my fresh water tub. How do I set that up to fill it as it is being used so I don't have to watch it? I don't want it to overflo.
What size tubing will be best for all this? Would Plex work?
I am sure there are going to be more questions. I just want to get a list going. I am going to try & get the RO/DI unit, inline TDS meter and the sink thats going to go in there this coming week. I plan on getting it from Buckeye Feild Supplies. Any suggestions on that?
Sorry I am all over the place I have a problem staying on (look a clown fish) track. But I need to keep this going. Wish I would have had know this before I set my tank up. But, we all think that @ some point I think.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
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Well for your fresh water supply from the rodi unit its just a simple float valuve. Like 8$ from buckeye field supply.
(https://ohioreef.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F13%2F04%2F27%2Fse3u3any.jpg&hash=62abf3c7b190a62b3cf7c7cb6b30cc9337db4dd2) and if you have one of the auto shut of unit on your rodi it will detect the build up of pressure and turn your waste water off too.
(https://ohioreef.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F13%2F04%2F27%2Fene3yqyh.jpg&hash=60f1c396de52c8ab835ce8c99f56a2132a8e5610). Its that white block on the unit. Only about 10$ and easy to install. From same company.
Pumps I use for water change were only like 20 bucks they are quite one 800. They do like 200gph and are adjustable too. They can do 5 feet head. Also pretty small too. (https://ohioreef.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.tapatalk.com%2Fd%2F13%2F04%2F27%2Fuguguzaz.jpg&hash=b30f838c8d572e28ba50241264191de4304478d3)
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For for the tubing from rodi just use standard 1/4 tubing that's on the rodi. And for the tube to the tank for the fresh and salt water I would just use 1/2in vinyl or even pvc would work I think pvc may be better light does not get through and allow algae to build in then when there is stagnant water. Think that should all get you a good start.
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One more thing I forgot. You could split your clean water from you rodi and run a light straight to your tanks or tanks if you split more. Would allow for a slower topoff. And allowing a slower change in temp or salinity.
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Google and read up on "TDS creep." It's better to have your RODI unit produce a large amount of water at a time rather than a little bit here and there.
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It sounds like you are wanting to change water manually but have pumps do all the work. I considered such an approach but eventually went with a continuous water change. It costs a little more upfront but I'm glad I made the investment. I also spent a little more money to get an accurate top-off system. Here is what I have:
For the fresh water, I have an RO/DI unit feeding a 50 gallon Rubbermaid commercial trash can. I have a cheap float valve in the trash can to ultimately stop flow. The feed water to the RO/DI is connected to a solenoid valve and the valve connected to a timer. I know approximately how much water my tank consumes and the production rate of my RO/DI throughout the year. Based upon this knowledge, I set the timer sufficient to fill the tank twice per week with a couple hours extra. This minimizes the "TDS" creep mentioned above. I only have to change my DI once every ~3 months so I know my approach is working. I have thought about switching to a high/low float switch system using my Apex, but the current system is working well.
For top-off, I use a Litermeter III with level controller to fill my sump continuously. The Litermeter is set to deliver slightly more water than the tank looses in a single day. The Litermeter delivers the desired amount over many intervals. Because the LMIII is set to delivery slightly more than the tank looses, the shut-off controller activates about once every couple days for a few hours. Once the level goes back down, the process starts again. Even if the LMIII level switch failed, there wouldn't be a problem because the LM is set to deliver only slightly more than the tank looses. It would take several weeks for this event to cause an issue. Plus, I have a second high level switch controlled through my Apex that shuts everything off if the level gets too high.
For water change, I have the RO/DI hooked up to a large 100 gallon Rubbermaid container with a cheap float switch. I have a MaxiJet powerhead in the container for water movement. Once per month, I allow the RO/DI to fill the container. I then mix the salt. Once the salt is ready, two LMIIIs complete the continuous water change. The LMIIIs change ~4 gallons per day of water for my 180 gallon system. The sump contains both high and low level switches that shut-off all my LMIIIs if problems are noticed. I monitor salinity weekly to ensure there isn't a mismatch in pump rate.
Overall, the system above has worked well. The LMIIIIs have to be calibrated occasionally plus they are a little pricey up-front. However, LMIIIs can pump against almost unlimited head or "pull against" ~20' of head so they can be placed almost anywhere. They only use 1/4" tubing so this can be hid almost anywhere.
Another nice thing with this system is the waste water coming from my tank's continuous water change is delivered to a cascading series of quarantine tanks. I never have to worry about having a quarantine tank ready :).
Good luck.