Tank drilling

[slandis3]

We need to drill 3 holes in reefpetes tank. Does anyone have a drill press or some way of drilling the holes as straight as possible? Maybe some sort of 2x4 ow the holes laid out straight? Any suggestions. 

[Reefpete]

We need to drill 3 holes in reefpetes tank. Does anyone have a drill press or some way of drilling the holes as straight as possible? Maybe some sort of 2x4 ow the holes laid out straight? Any suggestions. 

Lazy said something about having a wooden template specifically for the size holes I need punched. Maybe this weekend, we can do it at the meeting?

[thepipbull]

I have a template and drill bit for 1" if lazy doesn't get them in time for the meeting i can bring them

[Boonjob]

If he is doing a calflo still I can cut a 2x4 to match the width of the tank and then I can drill as many sized holes as he needs into the 2x4 at the right measurements so that all you have to do is clamp the 2x4 to the tank and just drill each hole in the jig. Just let me know the measurements, I can bring the jig to the meeting(provided I can find my hole saw kit, think my dad has it)

I can also bring my cordless with a dead center leveler on it so your going at it straight down.

[slandis3]

Cool glad we can come up with a plan and get a fellow reefer's tank up and going.

[Todd W.]

Can I add in my 46 gallon to be drilled at Saturday's festivities?  That and some recommendations on overflow designs...

[lazylivin]

To create a template just cut a hole through a piece of wood using the hole saw that you are going to drill the tank with. Then clamp the wood to the tank and you will get a perfect hole. I also use another piece of wood on the inside of tank so their is no bust out. The entire drill time I have a hose with running water to keep bit cool and hole clean.

[Wall_Tank]

To create a template just cut a hole through a piece of wood using the hole saw that you are going to drill the tank with. Then clamp the wood to the tank and you will get a perfect hole. I also use another piece of wood on the inside of tank so their is no bust out. The entire drill time I have a hose with running water to keep bit cool and hole clean.

I struggled with this method when drilling the lower potions of the tank for the suction line of my external pump.   Do you and a clamp with a 20: throat?

I ended up standing the tank on end, on some wood...   Used the weight of the tank to help keep it from busting out.

[Boonjob]

Can I add in my 46 gallon to be drilled at Saturday's festivities?  That and some recommendations on overflow designs...

I think if you are gonna do it, the census atm would be to do a calflo design(coast to coast). If you want to hit me up with your measurement of the tank and where you want the holes drilled I can make you a jig aswell.

If the club's holesaws are gonna be in I may bring my 50 along to get it's holes out of the way(if micki doesn't mind)... the 80 I'm gonna have to drill while everything is still in it.

[Todd W.]

I think if you are gonna do it, the census atm would be to do a calflo design(coast to coast). If you want to hit me up with your measurement of the tank and where you want the holes drilled I can make you a jig aswell.

If the club's holesaws are gonna be in I may bring my 50 along to get it's holes out of the way(if micki doesn't mind)... the 80 I'm gonna have to drill while everything is still in it.

I will measure tonight and start research on the calflo...

[Reefpete]

I think if you are gonna do it, the census atm would be to do a calflo design(coast to coast). If you want to hit me up with your measurement of the tank and where you want the holes drilled I can make you a jig aswell.

If the club's holesaws are gonna be in I may bring my 50 along to get it's holes out of the way(if micki doesn't mind)... the 80 I'm gonna have to drill while everything is still in it.

What size holes do you need made? Also what are you making the jig out of, 1x4, 2x4?

[micki]

If the club's holesaws are gonna be in I may bring my 50 along to get it's holes out of the way(if micki doesn't mind)... the 80 I'm gonna have to drill while everything is still in it.

By all means bring it over! 

[Boonjob]

What size holes do you need made? Also what are you making the jig out of, 1x4, 2x4?

I have a wood/bimetal whole saw kit so I was gonna make a jig for you and todd if you want(slandis had asked if we could get one.) I sent Brian a message asking if he wanted me to make up some calfo jigs for the standard aquarium sizes and some standalone templates for the new saw kits(these would just remain with the club's saws so that noone has to make them up when they borrow em)

[Reefpete]

So I was wondering what everyone else thinks...
 I have heard...That when drilling for a bulkhead to go down 1.5" from the trim?
Also if that is true, when drilling for the coast to coast how far apart from each other should the holes be placed?
This is the bulkhead I have

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/catalog/product/gallery/id/574/image/1432/

[Boonjob]

So I was wondering what everyone else thinks...
 I have heard...That when drilling for a bulkhead to go down 1.5" from the trim?
Also if that is true, when drilling for the coast to coast how far apart from each other should the holes be placed?
This is the bulkhead I have

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/catalog/product/gallery/id/574/image/1432/

in my experience it is wise to leave a 1" space all the way around the hole atleast.... this obviously would depend greatly on the hole size.

[Reefpete]

So I was wondering what everyone else thinks...
 I have heard...That when drilling for a bulkhead to go down 1.5" from the trim?
Also if that is true, when drilling for the coast to coast how far apart from each other should the holes be placed?
This is the bulkhead I have

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/catalog/product/gallery/id/574/image/1432/

Thought that image had dimensions on it. My bad

[Reefpete]

I think if you are gonna do it, the census atm would be to do a calflo design(coast to coast). If you want to hit me up with your measurement of the tank and where you want the holes drilled I can make you a jig aswell.

If the club's holesaws are gonna be in I may bring my 50 along to get it's holes out of the way(if micki doesn't mind)... the 80 I'm gonna have to drill while everything is still in it.

If your still wanting to make a jig, my tank is 36"s and would like the holes centered with a 3" spacing between the holes. The only issue that may come up is that the hole size I need is metric. 42mm/1.65"s?

[Todd W.]

My tank is the same size 36".  I would like to use 1" bulkheads and build the Calflo design.  So the jig that you are making for the 3 holes should work for me too.

[Boonjob]

If your still wanting to make a jig, my tank is 36"s and would like the holes centered with a 3" spacing between the holes. The only issue that may come up is that the hole size I need is metric. 42mm/1.65"s?

what size bulkhead are you using? 1 inch?

Unless you specifically want a 42mm hole the 1 3/4 should work just fine. (44 mm)

and I will hopefully have the jigs made up thursday night. Todd you are comfortable with his design correct? His and the calfo are slightly different. They work under the same principle(maximum skimming surface) but the design reefpete has chosen to go with is supposed to run alot quieter over a standard calfo, but also requires a little more plumbing.(I personally am gonna use the same design pete has choosen)

[cyberwollf]

A cool idea i have seen and use all the time for woodworking jigs is to make templates out of cheap kitchen cutting boards.  The plastic if fairly solid, easy to cut, and wont warp normally.  Maybe look in to making a set to go with all the club's bits when they come in

[Reefpete]

what size bulkhead are you using? 1 inch?

Unless you specifically want a 42mm hole the 1 3/4 should work just fine. (44 mm)

Yes, I am going to run 1" bulkheads. 44mm holes will work quite well, I believe?

A cool idea i have seen and use all the time for woodworking jigs is to make templates out of cheap kitchen cutting boards.  The plastic if fairly solid, easy to cut, and wont warp normally.  Maybe look in to making a set to go with

Do you think that the cutting boards will stay cool enough?

[Boonjob]

A cool idea i have seen and use all the time for woodworking jigs is to make templates out of cheap kitchen cutting boards.  The plastic if fairly solid, easy to cut, and wont warp normally.  Maybe look in to making a set to go with all the club's bits when they come in

I plan on making a complete set of templates and jigs tomorrow, I was actually planning on using a kitchen cutting board or equivalent sheet of plastic after I decided to just make a permanent set of templates for the saw kit, mostly to allow the water to remain on the bit without any negative effects on the template(wood would asorb the water, leading to rot,warp,mold etc as you have mentioned)

[Boonjob]

Yes the 44-45mm bit will work just fine for the 1"... the 42mm looks like it is more for the 3/4" sch80 bulkheads.


And it would depend greatly on the material of the cutting board, but it should be just fine for the most part. The risk of melting the board is present but the wood templates do run a good risk of warping after the first use(especially with watering the bit the wood plate is gonna soak it all up) And I have no problems sealing the templates in urethane, but the cutting hole wouldn't be able to be sealed which is where the water will be present. I will make some up on both wood and some plastic boards and we will just have to trial and error it.  My only hesitation with the plastic cutting board is that it lacks the thickness of a normal piece of wood which will help stabalize the drill bit, but depending on what I can find I may just glue and press several sheets togethr to form one thick piece

[slandis3]

I wonder how well an aluminum plate would hold up? I wonder if it would cause the sides of the diamond bit to ware out?

[Wall_Tank]

I wonder how well an aluminum plate would hold up? I wonder if it would cause the sides of the diamond bit to ware out?

You could relieve the bottom of the aluminum hole for the thickness of the diamond coating....You would probably have to protect the aluminum from scratching the glass.

[Boonjob]

You could relieve the bottom of the aluminum hole for the thickness of the diamond coating....You would probably have to protect the aluminum from scratching the glass.

Agreed(just bevel the bottom side of the template to the desired thickness; this would also allow water to flow freely around the bit.),  Some 3m Rubber spray would take care of the scratch threat too.   Thinking about making one up on the water jet?  that would be choice Slandis.  Those templates would easily outlive the bits too. 

Maybe take a router and run a channel through the center of the template to allow the water to run out of the plate, and drill a hole beside the main hole in the center of the channel and attach some small diameter tubing with a adpater to hook up to garden hose to constantly pump in water and push the excess out the other side of the channel?

[slandis3]

I will cut it out on a cnc. I am thinking about cutting water groves into it or better yet I may even drill water pockets into it to inject water straight into the hole.

[Boonjob]

I will cut it out on a cnc. I am thinking about cutting water groves into it or better yet I may even drill water pockets into it to inject water straight into the hole.

Sounds good, Thats what meant by the bevel and water channel. So I guess you should have the bits on thursday not me 

[Reefpete]

Yes the 44-45mm bit will work just fine for the 1"... the 42mm looks like it is more for the 3/4" sch80 bulkheads.

Whatever you say man...Its just mm's
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-abs-bulkhead-slip-x-slip.html

I will cut it out on a cnc. I am thinking about cutting water groves into it or better yet I may even drill water pockets into it to inject water straight into the hole.

Maybe we could figure out a way to use a garden hose fitting that channles water though some sort of water jacket all around the bit opening. Also to attach a divice (not sure of its proper name) to allow a cordless drill to be used as a variable rpm drill press? The cutting board style of plastic could be used as a sleeve to keep the bit from dulling and loading up with aluminium. Also to keep it from scratching the surface

[Todd W.]

Hmmmm if you put more thought into it and a great design, I see a sales opprotunity to possibly a glass hole drill reseller.

[Boonjob]

I meant plasti dip not 3m... sorry

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip


This should work quite well to prevent any scratching to the tank

[Boonjob]

Whatever you say man...Its just mm's
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-abs-bulkhead-slip-x-slip.html

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/45-mm-diamond-coated-glass-drill-bit.html

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/42-mm-diamond-coated-glass-drill-bit.html

[slandis3]

Do you guys think 1" thick plate will be ok?

[Boonjob]

Do you guys think 1" thick plate will be ok?

I personally think that would be more than sufficient.... What all do you plan on making? a seperate piece for each hole size or doing one sheet with all the different hole sizes drilled in it.

I wonder if you could drill some holes for some magnets, and we can glue them in before plastidipping the bottom of the plate and then taking a piece of plastic cutting board etc and putting magnets in it so that you don't even have to use clamps on the jig, you just put the plastic piece on the side you aren't drilling and the jig would be magnetically held in place while you drill.

[slandis3]

I personally think that would be more than sufficient.... What all do you plan on making? a seperate piece for each hole size or doing one sheet with all the different hole sizes drilled in it.

I wonder if you could drill some holes for some magnets, and we can glue them in before plastidipping the bottom of the plate and then taking a piece of plastic cutting board etc and putting magnets in it so that you don't even have to use clamps on the jig, you just put the plastic piece on the side you aren't drilling and the jig would be magnetically held in place while you drill.

Already looking for strong magnets to use for the plates. I am thinking about cutting the hole in the plate for the largest bit and making spacers for the other holes. Still working on that part of it.

[Boonjob]

Neodymium magnets imo...

I have some circular neo magnets that are usually found in tranny/oil pans, I have like 30 if you want to use a few(only prob is they look like a donut they are circular but with the centers cut out but they are larger than a half dollar so 4 or so should be plenty strength on each piece...They usually take a screwdriver or scrapper to pry apart.

[Todd W.]

With the Calflo design, has anyone attempted it with smaller pipes than 1 1/2 inch?

[Boonjob]

With the Calflo design, has anyone attempted it with smaller pipes than 1 1/2 inch?

I don't think the return line size will effect the functionality of the design at all, However most people do 1 1/2 only because it allows a good amount of flow weither under a siphon or not... sounds like pete will be running 1" on his

[slandis3]

On a tank your size I would stick with 1" bulk heads.

[Todd W.]

I don't think the return line size will effect the functionality of the design at all, However most people do 1 1/2 only because it allows a good amount of flow weither under a siphon or not... sounds like pete will be running 1" on his

I just started looking at the plumbing I will need to buy and the 1 1/2" pipe size looks like overkill for a 46g tank.  I am going to look at the 1".... I am also trying to figure out how I can use some 3/4 inch pex that I had to buy in a 100' roll and only used 30' of it.  The pex would be much easier to put in the wall and route to my basement.

[Wall_Tank]

No need to use 1.5" pipe, unless you are planning to circulate that much water.  You can make your overflow thinner if you use smaller pipe.  For the size tanks we have been discussing a 1" pipe is plenty.

[Boonjob]

Running your return in 3/4 -1" would be sufficeint, Not sure if your pex would be good for the return line from the pump. is that 3/4 inside diameter?

I agree the 1" pipe is plenty, I wasn't saying to go with 1 1/2; it's a  bit overkill on your setup imo.

[slandis3]

3/4" pex I believe has a smaller inside dia than standard PVC. I will check.

[slandis3]

pex has a .671" ID and pvc has a .824 ID

[Boonjob]

pex has a .671" ID and pvc has a .824 ID

Yeah thought so, So i don't really see anyway to incorporate that pex into your return or overflow lines... Maybe you could use some for things such as reactors,ats,uv etc... though most of those are 3/8 fittings but with a little adapters you could make it work.

[Todd W.]

Yea that would really cut down on the flow, that and mating up different pipes is not easy.  They make the connectors and sell them at HW stores but they have brass in them...

[Boonjob]

Yea that would really cut down on the flow, that and mating up different pipes is not easy.  They make the connectors and sell them at HW stores but they have brass in them...

You should be able to find polymer adapters, but to be honest normal flex and or standard pvc is probably a much more viable/cheaper solution.

[Reefpete]

Already looking for strong magnets to use for the plates. I am thinking about cutting the hole in the plate for the largest bit and making spacers for the other holes. Still working on that part of it.

N52 are the stronger of the neodymium

[Todd W.]

Just called all-glass my tank manufacturer, the bottom and front are the only tempered glass in the tank

[Reefpete]

I don't think the return line size will effect the functionality of the design at all, However most people do 1 1/2 only because it allows a good amount of flow weither under a siphon or not... sounds like pete will be running 1" on his

Weither?
Actually I am only running 1" bulkheads with 1.5" plumbing. www.beananimal.com

[Boonjob]

Just called all-glass my tank manufacturer, the bottom and front are the only tempered glass in the tank

good deal, and great idea! We dont want to have to add a what not to do section to the drilling tutorial video!

[Reefpete]

good deal, and great idea! We dont want to have to add a what not to do section to the drilling tutorial video!

+1

[Boonjob]

Weither?
Actually I am only running 1" bulkheads with 1.5" plumbing. www.beananimal.com

Sigh, he only used 1" bulkheads because he said he didn't want to have to buy any and he had them laying around... did you even read it, or just look at the pictures?

[Reefpete]

Sigh, he only used 1" bulkheads because he said he didn't want to have to buy any and he had them laying around... did you even read it, or just look at the pictures?

To be quite honest, I have read the article... several times. What bean animal did is tried and thoroughly tested. That is exactly what I am looking for.
I want to set my system up *once* and leave it alone for as long as I can. Unlike...well you know who. Also...If that wasn't a good enough reason for your sighing @$$. My tank is only as tall as it is deep. While I was only looking at the pictures... I came to the thought that smaller bulkheads would allow for slightly smaller overflow glass.

This coming from you...The one who is going to try to drill a tank that is a running system. 

[Todd W.]

Well I will think about it some more tomorrow, going with 1 1/2 inch for a 46 seems like real overkill... Now for a 100+ I wouldn't even have second thoughts about it.  That and trying to run 3 1 1/2 inch lines downstairs would be neigh impossible.... I really need to think and plan this through a little bit more

[Boonjob]

Well I will think about it some more tomorrow, going with 1 1/2 inch for a 46 seems like real overkill... Now for a 100+ I wouldn't even have second thoughts about it.  That and trying to run 3 1 1/2 inch lines downstairs would be neigh impossible.... I really need to think and plan this through a little bit more

yeah 1 1/2 is out of the question, I ran it on my 55 and it caused way too much air mixture in the pipe and i had to make an extra bubble trap to deal with the excess air in the sump

[Todd W.]

Check out the outputs on this calflo design...  I wonder where he got the aquarium safe black silicon?

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2021927

[Boonjob]

I wonder where he got the aquarium safe black silicon?

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=219088-72643-LW5030&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3084585&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1    ?

[Boonjob]

To be quite honest, I have read the article... several times. What bean animal did is tried and thoroughly tested. That is exactly what I am looking for.
I want to set my system up *once* and leave it alone for as long as I can. Unlike...well you know who. Also...If that wasn't a good enough reason for your sighing @$$. My tank is only as tall as it is deep. While I was only looking at the pictures... I came to the thought that smaller bulkheads would allow for slightly smaller overflow glass.

This coming from you...The one who is going to try to drill a tank that is a running system. 

Jealous?

[Todd W.]

Just ordered my smoked glass and bulkheads...

[micki]

Just ordered my smoked glass and bulkheads...

 

[Todd W.]

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=219088-72643-LW5030&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3084585&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1    ?

I did some quick searches on it and there is quite a bit of discord on whether or not this is fish safe.  I need to look into it more and possibly call GE to find out.  There are some sites that when searching for 'fish safe black silicone' come up, usually at online fish equip specialty stores and it is slightly pricey, maybe a LFS would have some.  Black would be nice but I may end up going the clear route as that can be picked up easily at Lowes...  Also if you goof up the clear, you can't see it

[Boonjob]

Yeah I am not too sure on this stuff(I know the GE silicone II * Correction Silicone I is safe), And from what I have read you are looking for anything that is 100%silicone and no anti mold/fungal etc(which this seems to be). The Lowes site says this is anti mold, but I don't recall seeing it on the actual product(and lowes has been known to goof up their specs quite often).  I think so long as it is 100% silicone and no anti mold once it cures there would be no risk of danger (anyone wanna chime in on this?)

I used the GE Silicone II *GE Silicone I in my sump and had no ill effect, I also used the dap squeeze tube of labeled aquarium safe silicone, was the same crap as the GE but I paid 4 dollars more for less and it was a pain to squeeze the tube and control the nozzle in tight spaces. The GE Caulk Tube was much more practical and under 5 bucks.

Not sure if GE will actually comment on it's viability in the aquarium? even if it is I bet they plead the 5th

Let us know what you learn!


I also have read this is the same blend as GE I which was labeled as aquarium safe on the product by GE and they sold it to All Glass aswell. It appears also that GE II is not labeled aquarium safe as it releases ammonia as it cures(but no risk once cured). And GE I realeases acetic acid (actually all do, but it appears II is a diluted strength) May play a part as to why GE no longer endorses aquarium safe for legal reasons.

[Wall_Tank]

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=219088-72643-LW5030&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3084585&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1    ?

That is Anti-Mildew, so should not be used.

I've not bought anything but small aquarium tubes of silicone, but based on the specifications, this should work

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAP-Silicone-Rubber-Sealant-4MY67?Pid=search

I've also heard of some using RTV silicone products too.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PERMATEX-RTV-Silicone-3DPT1?Pid=search

[Wall_Tank]

I used the GE Silicone II in my sump and had no ill effect

None that you know of....yet.  I would avoid it.   All Silicone II has Anti Mildew additives.    There are more folks using the Silicone I product for aquariums.   I doubt GE will say one way or the other, for liability sake. 

[Boonjob]

None that you know of....yet.  I would avoid it.   All Silicone II has Anti Mildew additives.    There are more folks using the Silicone I product for aquariums.   I doubt GE will say one way or the other, for liability sake. 

I meant I used one not II, Sorry. And I was commenting that from what I have read this Black silicone appears to be the same formula.

[Todd W.]

Well I have some good information on Black Silicone from GE.  I just got off the phone with one of the specialists at their helpdesk.  She stated that GE makes no 'fish safe' silicone products.  The product from Lowes that we were discussing and has been discussed online, LW5030 is not fish safe.  However she stated that Window and Door Silicone 1 does not have mold or mildew resistant chemicals in it so it could possibly be fish safe but she does not recommend it.

Additionally she stated that any of their products are not designed for continuous underwater applications and will degrade over time.  This is probably why the mold and mildew resistent silicones (GE #2) are bad for fish and leech the chemicals into the water over time.

It looks like I will just purchase the clear aquarium safe silicone from a hardware store, LFS, or online just to be sure....

Todd

[Boonjob]

Well I have some good information on Black Silicone from GE.  I just got off the phone with one of the specialists at their helpdesk.  She stated that GE makes no 'fish safe' silicone products.  The product from Lowes that we were discussing and has been discussed online, LW5030 is not fish safe.  However she stated that Window and Door Silicone 1 does not have mold or mildew resistant chemicals in it so it could possibly be fish safe but she does not recommend it.

Additionally she stated that any of their products are not designed for continuous underwater applications and will degrade over time.  This is probably why the mold and mildew resistent silicones (GE #2) are bad for fish and leech the chemicals into the water over time.

It looks like I will just purchase the clear aquarium safe silicone from a hardware store, LFS, or online just to be sure....

Todd

Yeah I figured they would say no, I didn't think they would get caught advising any differently than the label already lists. Up to you, I personally see ZERO defference in the GE 100% silicone non mold resist blends vs the "aquarium safe" labeled blends. And though there is alot of mixed debate as to the use of this product(GE 1, not 5030), all of the people I see using it have reported zero negative effects, and the ones who say no haven't even tried it or really have any real reported negative effects, so I guess it is what it is. FYI that black silicone is a Window/Door Blend

Lowes sells that DAP which is labeled aquarium safe, I wanna say it is >$8 for a squeeze tube, I found it hard to squeeze into tight spots, a "caulk tube" with an airline attached to the nozzle may work better? Also not sure if you used it before but it releases a terrible smell and may agitate your sinuses I would advise doing it somewhere well vented and my sump stunk for almost 2 days before it went away.

[slandis3]

I know I used ge type 1 on my sump and its turning yellow. It gets very little light. Not sure whats up with it. I think Dow 795 is what all the top manufacturers use.


http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=dow+795&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=10397429851187904489&sa=X&ei=XjkoTqT2EejKsQKB56E7&ved=0CDgQ8wIwAw

[Reefpete]

Jealous?

No

[Reefpete]

I know I used ge type 1 on my sump and its turning yellow. It gets very little light. Not sure whats up with it. I think Dow 795 is what all the top manufacturers

GE contractors SCS 1200 is what a few tank manufacturers like oceanic use.

[Boonjob]

Yeah, you guessed it. I'm secretly jealous of a system that is totally opposite of what I'm wanting.

Now I am confused, What exactly is opposite about it?

[Boonjob]

slandis were you trying to make a jig still and were you trying to have it done for the meeting? or should I just make up these wood ones (if todd and pete still want em)

[Todd W.]

Let me know.  If you make the jig that would be great.  If not let me know and I can make one.  Just need to know what size holes that the diamond drill will fit into for a 1" bulkhead...

[Boonjob]

Let me know.  If you make the jig that would be great.  If not let me know and I can make one.  Just need to know what size holes that the diamond drill will fit into for a 1" bulkhead...

I will make it up not a problem, I got the bit from Brian today so I will just make it with the bits.

[slandis3]

I wont have time to get it done for the meeting, I am waiting for the material to come in.

[Reefpete]

I will make it up not a problem, I got the bit from Brian today so I will just make it with the bits.

slandis were you trying to make a jig still and were you trying to have it done for the meeting? or should I just make up these wood ones (if todd and pete still want em)

Yessir! Do you need the specs I would need again?

[Wall_Tank]

Yessir! Do you need the specs I would need again?

Your doing a 1" bulk head right.  That should be a 1-3/4" hole.  I just made a jig out of 1" thick HMW HDPE.  Worked pretty well.

[Wall_Tank]

So what does everyone do to the holes once they are drilled.   Any polishing?

[Reefpete]

So what does everyone do to the holes once they are drilled.   Any polishing?

Don't know honestly, this is my first hole drilling.   

[micki]

Don't know honestly, this is my first hole drilling.   

LOL

[Boonjob]

Yessir! Do you need the specs I would need again?

you said 36" with the  45mm holes drilled in the center of the tank with a 3" spacing... right? if so the only thing I need clarification on is did you want 3" from each hole or 3" on center?

And is this what you want also todd?

[Boonjob]

So what does everyone do to the holes once they are drilled.   Any polishing?

I was thinking the holes we drill out could be siliconed to some pvc and made into some top down viewers?

[Reefpete]

you said 36" with the  45mm holes drilled in the center of the tank with a 3" spacing... right? if so the only thing I need clarification on is did you want 3" from each hole or 3" on center?

And is this what you want also todd?

3" hole to hole. I am trying to give as much space between the holes without spreading them out too far and looking goofy.

[Reefpete]

I was thinking the holes we drill out could be siliconed to some pvc and made into some top down viewers?

Sounds pretty neat!

[Boonjob]

3" hole to hole. I am trying to give as much space between the holes without spreading them out too far and looking goofy.

K, I will make it up tonight.

[Todd W.]

Works for me

[Reefpete]

K, I will make it up tonight.

Thanks man, I'm sure it'll be a huge help.

[AdenHoed]

I have not posted much on here but Ricj (coral Ranch) said I could find advice/help on here....  I am interested in drilling my 150  (4x2x2).  can somebody please call me at 470-9737   about when? Where? drilling session is taking place

[lazylivin]

Drilling session today at 2:30 in Piqua. If you want to bring your tank contact Micki to get address. You can reach her here. http://www.ohioreef.com/index.php?action=pm;sa=send;u=2