Author Topic: 180 Gallon Starphire tank Upgrade + Fish Room (Read 42442 times)

lazylivin · « **Reply #125 on:** September 11, 2011, 17:03:40 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on September 11, 2011, 00:04:40

My PB Tang is hanging out in QT in HypoSalinity Water. 1.009. I was on the road all week (Wife was watching the tank) Noticed today, that he has stopped scratching his gills. Good sign. Now 4 weeks in hypo and 4 weeks in Normal QT. He is devouring algae sheets, only picking at other food.

That is GREAT Paul.

HUNGER · « **Reply #126 on:** September 11, 2011, 18:06:32 »

looks good

lazylivin · « **Reply #127 on:** September 11, 2011, 21:24:25 »

I wonder how much it would be to chrome the heat sinks. That would look cool.

aquavista99 · « **Reply #128 on:** September 11, 2011, 21:46:57 »

Fantastic setup, Paul! Really like your new QT system as well. And yes, a chrome heat sink would be very nice!

cyberwollf · « **Reply #129 on:** September 11, 2011, 23:12:36 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on September 11, 2011, 00:04:40

Well, 280 holes drilled, tapped #4-40. Not sure that I'd do that again, but it's over. And only 2 Broken taps.

That sounds like a horrible weekend

slandis3 · « **Reply #130 on:** September 12, 2011, 04:56:43 »

The main problem with chrome is it does not deal with salt very well. You would need to clear coat it after you have it dipped.

aquavista99 · « **Reply #131 on:** September 12, 2011, 07:46:22 »

Sounds expensive as well. Would the chrome just flake off over time after exposed to salt spray, etc?

Quote from: slandis3 on September 12, 2011, 04:56:43

The main problem with chrome is it does not deal with salt very well. You would need to clear coat it after you have it dipped.

slandis3 · « **Reply #132 on:** September 12, 2011, 07:53:56 »

It will start to get rust spots on it,bubble up and flake off. Think back to the old cars with cheap chrome bumpers in ohio. Over time the chrome is gone due to the salt on the roads. Most expensive part of chrome is the prep work. You have to get it to a mirror finish before you can even start the process. the first thing they dip it in is copper, his helps fill little imperfections, then rebuff dip in nickle, rebuff dip in chrome. I haven't chromed anything in a long time but I would guess that heat sink would cost $150-$300 depending on where you go.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #133 on:** September 12, 2011, 21:23:32 »

I'm going to enclose the aluminum with Black acrylic. The only part of the heat sink that will be seen will be the ends of the fins.

aquavista99 · « **Reply #134 on:** September 12, 2011, 22:05:03 »

That is going to look very nice!

Quote from: Wall_Tank on September 12, 2011, 21:23:32

I'm going to enclose the aluminum with Black acrylic. The only part of the heat sink that will be seen will be the ends of the fins.

HUNGER · « **Reply #135 on:** September 12, 2011, 22:27:42 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on September 12, 2011, 21:23:32

I'm going to enclose the aluminum with Black acrylic. The only part of the heat sink that will be seen will be the ends of the fins.

thats a great idea

Boonjob · « **Reply #136 on:** September 13, 2011, 12:28:42 »

Sounds awesome, and looks good, Great job paul!

lazylivin · « **Reply #137 on:** September 13, 2011, 13:04:15 »

I didn't know chrome could rust, I always thought it was the iron underneath it creating ironoxide. A rusty light fixture sure wouldn't look good.

slandis3 · « **Reply #138 on:** September 13, 2011, 13:16:16 »

Well the chrome doesn't rust, it corrodes and loses its hold on what ever it is attached to then that gets corrosion under it. You can see on aluminum wheels that are chrome, It flakes off over time. I had a chunk of chrome flake off and cut a brake line on my old suv.

Boonjob · « **Reply #139 on:** September 13, 2011, 13:53:54 »

I personally feel that a quality chrome plated aluminum heat sink would last a very long time with normal care before any corrosion or rust would show...

A good chrome job should never flake... if it is you have adhesion problems during application. Car wheels that flake are because they are made from an alluminum alloy which does not allow a sufficient bond to the chrome as it isn't 100%alluminum. Car bumpers rust from the inside out as previously stated.

For the hassle and cost... you could easily just polish the alluminum heatsinks if that be the look you want.... IMHO.

Reefpete · « **Reply #140 on:** September 17, 2011, 22:23:21 »

How about getting the heat sink anodized? I have plans of doing this to my upcoming led project.

HUNGER · « **Reply #141 on:** September 17, 2011, 23:31:42 »

Quote from: Reefpete on September 17, 2011, 22:23:21

How about getting the heat sink anodized? I have plans of doing this to my upcoming led project.

thats a great idea

Reefpete · « **Reply #142 on:** September 17, 2011, 23:44:46 »

Quote from: HUNGER on September 17, 2011, 23:31:42

thats a great idea

I have those from time to time. Thanks

HUNGER · « **Reply #143 on:** September 18, 2011, 00:56:32 »

im proud of u

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #144 on:** September 18, 2011, 13:09:07 »

Well I think all of the metal work is done. All of the mounting holes are drilled and tapped. Here is the shell. The sides are going to have black Acryllic covering it, one to hold the wiring cordgrips and plugs. Also to direct the airflow down to the fins of the heat sink and out the ends.

Note that the drivers that I'm using are the new Meanwell HLG series drivers. They are high power (up to 360w) but unlike some of the other recent high power power supplies, they are still low voltage. Which means I'll be running parallel circuits protected with fuses. I have an HLG 185W power supply running 52 LED's. These are still Dimmable, and have nice metal enclosures, these are also much higher efficiency than most drivers. 93-95%.

HUNGER · « **Reply #145 on:** September 18, 2011, 14:05:05 »

that does look sweet

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #146 on:** September 18, 2011, 14:30:41 »

Quote from: HUNGER on September 18, 2011, 14:05:05

that does look sweet

Thanks, It looks good in Solidworks. But it's been definitely a DIY-BVD (Do It Yourself, But Very Difficult) I toyed with getting some stuff machine on a Water-Jet, but I still would have had to tap all of the holes, so I did it all at home.

lazylivin · « **Reply #147 on:** September 18, 2011, 18:14:13 »

That is one massive heat sink. I am sure more then capable of keeping the LED's cool. Nice work

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #148 on:** September 28, 2011, 23:30:33 »

Travel for work has put a real crimp in getting this done, but I took this week off to get some things done. My Fixture is nearly complete, I need to modify the mounting, tie in the controls, and possibly build a front cover later on. The different colors on the wires is for each of the power supplies, there are 4 of them, totaling 550w.

With some good light over the tank, tomorrow will be moving day for my clams and some corals that have been in QT for a while now. Next on the project list is to build the canopy. (I know, it will cover the fixture) But I have some jumpers, and I need to fill that hole in my wall.

lazylivin · « **Reply #149 on:** September 29, 2011, 00:13:42 »

That is off the hook Paul. Craziest DIY LED's I have seen. Nice work

2024 Ohio Reef Frag Swap

Author Topic: 180 Gallon Starphire tank Upgrade + Fish Room (Read 42442 times)