Slandis- A good starting point would be to review the SPS FAQ by James A. Fox on Reef Central. I provided the link below.
http://www.reefcentral.com/modules.php?s=&name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=5 Here are a few key points to consider from the FAQ as well:
How long after initially setting up the tank, should I wait before adding SPS? In my experience, these types of coral require a more mature, well-established system. After the initial nitrogen cycle, there will be multiple algae growth phases. Once you get beyond this, you should be able to safely introduce your first coral. This timetable usually falls between the first six to twelve months. Although it’s been said many times, it’s a saying well worth repeating…nothing good happens quickly, when it comes to reefkeeping. Be sure to gradually introduce coral to your system. Do not try to add a box of coral all at once, especially with smaller aquariums (less than 120 gallons). Allow time for your tank to adjust to the increased bio-load after each addition.
Do I need metal halide lighting? Personally I am a great fan of halide lighting, so my opinion is biased. When approached with this question, I recommend 250w halides minimum, with 400w halides being all the better.
What about water parameters (salinity, calcium, alkalinity, phosphate, nitrate, etc.)? Obviously nitrite and ammonia should be undetectable. Nitrate should be as low as possible (<10 mg/L). Phosphate should be <0.04 mg/L, as anything greater will promote nuisance algae growth. Salinity should be maintained at 35 PPT (~1.026). Temperature is currently a subject of hot debate. Many people have successfully maintained aquariums at ~77°f (25°c), others at 84-86°f (~29-30°c). I will not get into this debate here. However, I maintain my aquarium at 82°f (27.8°c) with great success. For calcium and alkalinity natural saltwater levels (NSW) should be your goal (420 mg/L Ca, and 2.9 mEq/L (8° dKH) alk {TMCRA Vol.1 Fossе and Nilsen 1996}). To encourage coralline algae growth, I like to maintain an elevated alkalinity level. Levels as high as 3.6-4.3 mEq/L (10-12° dKH) should be fine.
How much water motion and what type are needed? Coral use water flow (most importantly) for gas exchange, to remove waste, and to bring food. Without this, the coral could easily suffocate or starve. Consider these coral are normally exposed to crashing waves, strong currents and/or tidal flows. For these reasons, since it is virtually impossible to duplicate this situation within the confines of an aquarium, I believe you can never have enough water movement. Volume and alternating motion of flow are (in my opinion) equally important. As with light, the more you provide the better. However, you do not want to aim (for example) a power head directly at the coral. Let indirect motion create the needed flow.
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