Author Topic: Project LED (Read 15051 times)

CoralBeauties · « **on:** July 09, 2010, 22:47:52 »

With some of the new funds from the swap and sale of one of my halides (thanks Kenn) I have started to build my second diy led light. My first light has been working real well for a couple of months now. I put 24 leds onto a heat sink that is 10" by 14" with room to add more if I chose to. I went with the cree leds. 12 are white and 12 are blue. The color after getting it running is almost exactly to one of my 20k halide lights. I had it checked with a lumens meter and it tested exactly like my 250 watt 20k bulb. the pics are of my first light.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #1 on:** July 09, 2010, 23:00:02 »

here is my second build step by step. I went with alittle smaller heat sink this time and am going to put 35 leds on it. the sink is 8.46" by 14". The leds are glued on by a heat transferable epoxy. The most important part of a high powered led is to keep them cool. That is the reason for the heat sink and a fan. Another important part was planning the routing of the wires and placement of the leds themselves. Take you time with this part. Once they are glued down it is hard to remove them without possibly damaging them.

HUNGER · « **Reply #2 on:** July 09, 2010, 23:01:00 »

wow looks good

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #3 on:** July 09, 2010, 23:08:07 »

Next you can see the led as they come to you. You break off each led of the holders and keep track of which ones are the blues and the whites. They are also polarity sensitive with a plus on one side and a minus on the other. the leds are glued onto the sink in a staggered order with a white following a blue. leds have drivers that are basically the same as a ballast. Each driver will power approx. 12 leds thus it takes 2 drivers for a 24 led light. one driver for the whites and one for the blues. You can use just the blues for dawn and dusk lighting.

bkvreef · « **Reply #4 on:** July 10, 2010, 02:38:29 »

Ok, I'm sure you have mentioned this somewhere, but I'll ask again anyway.

How much would you say a diy l.e.d. light (the size you are making now) would cost?

Also I am interested but while I am capable of sawing and nailing wood, electrical things scare me. How difficult is the wiring and setup?

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #5 on:** July 10, 2010, 08:30:14 »

Which optics are you using?

Why did you decide to go to 35 LED's?

What size is your tank again?

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #6 on:** July 10, 2010, 11:16:34 »

The light in the picture that is equal to a 20k halide is right at $300 just for the leds and the heat sink. Most diy led packages run about $110 for 12 leds with the driver and optics. the wiring and soldering can be a bit overwhelming but a quick lesson from someone who knows how and it isnt all that bad. Actually since I changed over to a different heat sink I would sell the one in the first picture for what I have into it in parts. I can be alittle bit anal about having all 3 that match.
My original light has 24 leds and I decided to add more leds to try to get in the 400 watt range of strength. the reason I went with 35 leds was just a matter of putting 5 rows of 7 leds that would fit nicely on my size of heat sink. I hope to be in the range of a 400 watt bulb with a fraction of the electrical cost.
Even though the initial cost might seem high it should pay for itself within no time. The leds should last for almost 10years without having to replace or with the strength of the lights decreasing. So no more bulb replacements at every 8 month at $70 a bulb and the electrical cost should be almost a third of the cost.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #7 on:** July 10, 2010, 11:26:00 »

I soldered up the leds at work the other day. I just ordered the remaining 6 leds to finish out the light so I should have it up and running by the end of next week.
As the pics show you run the positive wire from the driver to the first led's positive side. From there on out you run a wire from positive to negative of the next led until you have all 12 leds wired up. the reason for the crisscross pattern is because of the leds being staggered between the whites and the blues. The leds are staggered to blend the colors together so there isnt a blue spots and white spots in the tank.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #8 on:** July 10, 2010, 11:35:53 »

The leds I have come with what is called optics. They are basically reflectors for the light. You can purchase several different optics that are in different degrees of reflection. The smaller angle being more like a spotlight and the larger angle spreading out the light more. I am mounting my lights fairly close to the water and decided to have 3 separate lights instead of one large heat sink running the length of the tank. Because of this I went with 80 degree optics which should blend all the lights together well. My tank is a 72inch 180 gallon tank. My total cost will be about $900 for the 3 lights but I would guess I have over $600 in my halides with the bulbs, reflectors, and ballasts. So it just made sense for me in the long run.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #9 on:** July 10, 2010, 11:55:57 »

I forgot to mention another very important factor in using the leds. Less HEAT. I am lucky in that my tank is in my basement and my tank never gets above 80 degrees. If you have heat issues the leds would help greatly. They do radiate some heat but nothing like the halides.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #10 on:** July 10, 2010, 12:37:43 »

I plan on running somewhere around 30-35 per fixture too. Let me know how your PAR works out. Are you still using a 50/50 mix between White and Royal Blue XR-E's?

How warm does the heat sink get.......are you putting a fan on it?

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #11 on:** July 10, 2010, 14:51:45 »

i will be using just one more white then blue due to just the uneven number count of leds. I have been running supplemental t5s right now but when I get the full 35 leds running I might not need them. If you like the color of 20k then go with the 50/50 mix as long as they are the xr-e led. I have been using 10k halides lately so the 20k color is allittle hard to get use to so I might end up with an actinic white t5 bulb to fill in the shadows from the leds. I need to thank Eric (marinelife) from saltgeek.com for the help and encouragement. here is where I purchased my different components.
I dont think the heat is a huge issue with the proper heatsink. The 10in sink I think would work without a fan. I havent fired up the 35 leds with the smaller sink (8.46) to comment on.

www.reefledlights.com Bill is a great guy to deal with who will personally answer each email and any question you might ask. I wouldnt buy from anyone else after dealing from him.
www.heatsinkusa.com they have a wide variety of sinks in size and can be cut as long or short as you request.
www.quietpcusa.com Is where I got my fans. They havent come in yet for me to comment on.

chromiumlux · « **Reply #12 on:** July 11, 2010, 22:34:56 »

Nice writeup and pics Jeff. I too will be using led's on the 150 build. I have been talking extensively with Eric for some time now. I did not beleive the difference until i saw it in person. His tank is gorgeous and the corals are growing like wildfire. Marinelife really has it together on the led build. I hope to get over again and see how your tank looks once converted over to all led's. maybe we can get out there soon. You also have a beautiful reef. Please post some updates as you go along.

lazylivin · « **Reply #13 on:** July 11, 2010, 23:54:37 »

It was only 900$ for 2 heat sinks, ballasts and 59 LED's? I did not know they were that affordable now. Heck I just blew $750 on two 400w MH, guess I could have been there for another $150 and had a ROI in 6 months.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #14 on:** July 12, 2010, 06:15:41 »

Marinelife's build was my motivation for doing my light.
when pricing these lights a good estimate would be $50 for each heat sink with shipping and cut fee. On the leds a good average would be about $110 for each 12 leds (includes leds, drivers, and optics.) A 24 led light would be close to a 250 watt halide. To get to the 400 watt strength you will need a min. of 36 leds.

cyberwollf · « **Reply #15 on:** July 12, 2010, 06:49:47 »

Did you ever get them checked with a PAR meter? I know you asked me several times, and I have been out of town and whatnot

granted I don't have any first hand experience with the build, but seems like the stuff I read, people were requiring narrower optics 40degree etc, to get 400w MH type results on a tank as deep as yours.

As luck would have it, the guy with my PAR meter is also out of town this week

I promise to try to get back with you soon

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #16 on:** July 12, 2010, 09:50:48 »

I just ordered my LED's and stuff. 96leds, optics, and 3 heatsinks.

I'm building lights for my 90gal tank. And also a smaller one for my Frag tank. I'll have about $1100 spent on this, but I have $200 in drivers, as I'm doing a full dimable setup with my Apex Controller. You can spend much less on drivers for the setup.

Oh and reefledlights carries USAheatsinks, precut, with no extra cut fee.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #17 on:** July 12, 2010, 18:34:46 »

Wall
What angle of optics did you order?

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #18 on:** July 12, 2010, 18:53:44 »

I went with 80deg optics. I looked at the intensity distribution, I was worried that the 70's and 60's would be too spot-lighty.

harleyrider · « **Reply #19 on:** July 12, 2010, 20:19:05 »

Jeff, my leds from a depth of 23 inchs span a solid 18 + inchs at the bottom of tank, with all leds spaced at 2 inchs i still get the spotlight effect at the very top of tank maybe an inch or so down from top, but from there down you dont. best investment i think ive ever made the color, shimmer, and growth is outstanding.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #20 on:** July 12, 2010, 20:53:16 »

I wasnt able to get a par reading on my leds but I did get a lux reading on the 24 led light. with the lux meter they were identical to my 250 watt 20k halide.
harley, what angle optics did you go with?
Jeff

harleyrider · « **Reply #21 on:** July 12, 2010, 20:58:55 »

Dont really remember, thats what im trying to find now, ill let you know when i find it, but i will tell ya the only time i get that spotlight look is when ive got the blues on by themeselves, such as moonlighting.

harleyrider · « **Reply #22 on:** July 12, 2010, 21:32:55 »

Jeff from what im finding i beleive mine are 70, but they are on a controller from 50 to 100%

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #23 on:** July 13, 2010, 21:12:56 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on July 12, 2010, 09:50:48

Oh and reefledlights carries USAheatsinks, precut, with no extra cut fee.

Just for the curious....reefledlights ships out of Illinois. Shipped the same day I ordered...1 day ground shipping. Nice UPS Quantum view emails.

The Heatsinks drop ship direct from USAHeatSink, which so far doesn't handle the shipping as nice.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #24 on:** July 14, 2010, 20:23:16 »

Light i done and ready to hang. I have to install some reinforcement wood in my hood so that I can screw my hanger brackets into. man these things are amazing how bright one little led can be. Now once it is installed if I can get wes to bring out his par meter to do some testing and comparing to the halides.
jeff

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #25 on:** July 14, 2010, 20:50:08 »

My heatsinks arrived today. So that would be an overall awesome service from reefledlights.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #26 on:** July 14, 2010, 21:11:56 »

I am glad you are happy with reefled. Bill has great service and quick shipping. If you email with any questions he will always answer and usually within the same day. have you figured how you will hang yours? I made stainless brackets, drilled and tapped the sink and will install them to the underside of the lid of my hood.
jeff

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #27 on:** July 14, 2010, 21:20:51 »

I already have an overhead beam, so I'll do if very close to what you have.

HUNGER · « **Reply #28 on:** July 14, 2010, 21:32:55 »

cant wait to see what the par says

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #29 on:** July 14, 2010, 22:16:02 »

Jeff,

Are you going to put a think acrylic or glass plate in front to protect from water splashes?

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #30 on:** July 15, 2010, 20:09:43 »

I have been running my current light for 2 months now without and shield. it is probably 12 inches off the water. My new light will be lowered by 2 inches but I dont plan on using any sheeting. i dont think that even at 10 inches I will have any problems with salt spray.
Jeff

Riderc82 · « **Reply #31 on:** July 15, 2010, 21:24:06 »

I have light envy!! I'm getting tired of my halides as soon as they turn on so does the central air for hours on end

. So what would the approximate cost be to light a standard 90? I would be looking for something as strong as 2x250 halides? Great looking light Jeff

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #32 on:** July 15, 2010, 21:47:54 »

unfortunately they arent cheap. You would probably be out close to $600 for 2 lights on the low side of being equal to 250 watt halides. that is measured with a lux meter. Not sure how the 24 leds would compare to the halides measured with a par meter. I removed my original light tonight and will start to add more leds tomorrow. In the end i will have 3 lights at 35 leds apiece. my hope it to be well above the 250 watt range.
jeff

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #33 on:** July 16, 2010, 23:53:33 »

ahhhhh. I'm seeing spots. Seriously, I'm playing with a string of 14 LED's and my variable power supply. I had to go get my sunglasses, so I could tune the voltage and current properly.

I just have a string of whites done, need to add the blue. A long way to go.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #34 on:** July 17, 2010, 22:29:58 »

got the smaller heat sink mounted today and got the 35 leds working. The extra 11 leds really made a difference. Up against the 10k 250 watt halides they are visibly brighter. I am glad I went with the extra leds. Now to get the second light installed and come up the extra cash to purchase 36 more leds and i will be set.
jeff

lazylivin · « **Reply #35 on:** July 17, 2010, 23:03:26 »

WOW brighter then a 10k 250w. That is crazy bright. I am jealous.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #36 on:** July 18, 2010, 08:30:17 »

When cyber is able to check it with the par meter then we will know how strong they really are. I would like to check a 10k bulb, 20k bulb and the leds with 24 leds on and then 35 leds on. One thing for sure they put out alot less heat then the halides.
Jeff

HUNGER · « **Reply #37 on:** July 18, 2010, 09:45:24 »

Quote from: Lazylivin on July 17, 2010, 23:03:26

WOW brighter then a 10k 250w. That is crazy bright.

+1

jeremyt · « **Reply #38 on:** July 18, 2010, 14:10:23 »

Great to hear they are working well for you. I am happy with my led strip over my fray tank.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #39 on:** July 20, 2010, 22:09:19 »

With Jeff as my inspiration.......here is my fixture. The green plugs will go to a separate power supply. With Whites on one circuit, Blues on another. The 7 wired down the middle will be teamed up with 7 from the other fixture. The 4 posts in the corners are acting as legs to protect the LED's......but after installation, there will be a thin acrylic sheet to protect from splashes and me hitting them. I don't have the optics on yet either.

jd · « **Reply #40 on:** July 20, 2010, 22:23:26 »

Paul and Jeff, you're lights look awesome! Very well done guys.

HUNGER · « **Reply #41 on:** July 21, 2010, 08:21:59 »

looken good

Midwest Express · « **Reply #42 on:** July 21, 2010, 08:59:22 »

Very nice! I am def going to be moving forward on this since I am changing over to my 125 and I don't want to run all the MH lights. Looking good man! Can't wait to see how it all works out for you!

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #43 on:** July 21, 2010, 19:25:44 »

Paul your light turned out great. you probably got the newest cree blues. my first light has the older blues and my new light has the newer blues. Since I have them both running now you can see a slight difference between the two. The newer blues have a more violet color look to them.
Jeff

UDflyer00 · « **Reply #44 on:** July 21, 2010, 21:05:09 »

Okay question... I'm not a very good d.i.y'er, so I'd need one of your help...

but it's about that time to replace the 2 bulbs in my PC fixture @ ~$100ish for both bulbs. I have a standard 65 gallon, and was curious if you thought I should put that $100 towards a LED setup?? I don't have a canopy or a hanging fixture, so not sure if I could use these, but just curious what you guys think.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #45 on:** July 21, 2010, 21:27:50 »

Even if your not trying to reproduce the intensity of a Metal Halide light, then you may be able to do it cheaper than our setups. But with the 3w Cree LEDs, Your going to need some sort of heat sink and fan to cool it though.

You might look into some of the strip LED systems that are marketed to retro into old hoods. You may also just want to look at a T5 retro. T5 bulbs are much cheaper than PC. And you have a better selection.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #46 on:** July 26, 2010, 22:13:10 »

Lights are finished, mounted on a test beam. I snapped these quickly, I have the brightness and the white balance messed up.

A bit messy, but the interface wiring. 4 drivers and the dimming control circuit from my Apex

HUNGER · « **Reply #47 on:** July 26, 2010, 22:38:02 »

brightness and the white balance messed up on the camra or the lights them self

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #48 on:** July 27, 2010, 19:52:06 »

Quote from: HUNGER on July 26, 2010, 22:38:02

brightness and the white balance messed up on the camra or the lights them self

That was in the 1st line of my message. I forgot to adjust, and was too lazy to fix. Part of it was because the lights were so bright. I'll retake them tonight, especially for you

HUNGER · « **Reply #49 on:** July 27, 2010, 20:01:26 »

o ok

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #50 on:** July 27, 2010, 20:38:04 »

Fixed per Hunger's request. Now that you can see it, please ignore the messy workbench.

Another potential I'm considering is what to do if a fan fails. The heat sinks heat up pretty quickly without air moving across them. While LED's are efficient, they do not like heat.

HUNGER · « **Reply #51 on:** July 27, 2010, 21:04:11 »

u realy didnt have to but it does look better

Midwest Express · « **Reply #52 on:** July 27, 2010, 22:35:56 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on July 27, 2010, 19:52:06

That was in the 1st line of my message. I forgot to adjust, and was too lazy to fix. Part of it was because the lights were so bright. I'll retake them tonight, especially for you

This may sound crazy... buuuuut there is a setup that I have helped some people put on a few computers. It is a remote radiant cooling system. Pretty much you run coolant lines from your current setup to a big big big heat sink (or even in one case a heat sink that is plumbed into an air duct.

Thinking about it though that won't work as you will not be able to run the water or the coolant through the heat sink themselves. Grrr....

I would just say put 2 or 3 fans on each and have them on switches. Since you have a controller... have them set to if the heat kicks up, it kicks on the outlet that the next set of fans is hooked into. I think that would be the easiest way to do it and only sacrifice an outlet.

TechGuy · « **Reply #53 on:** July 27, 2010, 23:21:13 »

Quote from: Midwest Express on July 27, 2010, 22:35:56

This may sound crazy... buuuuut there is a setup that I have helped some people put on a few computers. It is a remote radiant cooling system. Pretty much you run coolant lines from your current setup to a big big big heat sink (or even in one case a heat sink that is plumbed into an air duct.

Thinking about it though that won't work as you will not be able to run the water or the coolant through the heat sink themselves. Grrr....

I would just say put 2 or 3 fans on each and have them on switches. Since you have a controller... have them set to if the heat kicks up, it kicks on the outlet that the next set of fans is hooked into. I think that would be the easiest way to do it and only sacrifice an outlet.

Heatpipes rock. But a royal pain in the rear...

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #54 on:** July 28, 2010, 06:17:31 »

I should have par readings on these lights on thursday. I will be sure and post results.
jeff

HUNGER · « **Reply #55 on:** July 28, 2010, 08:14:06 »

Quote from: jjoos99 on July 28, 2010, 06:17:31

I should have par readings on these lights on thursday. I will be sure and post results.
jeff

cool

ya i would run 2 fans on each light

Neogenesis · « **Reply #56 on:** July 29, 2010, 10:43:26 »

Excellent build, I'm loving the set of LED's I built, and will be building more once I get to that point on my 180G I'm moving into. I can't wait to get that monster going.

Scott

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #57 on:** July 29, 2010, 19:22:01 »

well thanks to wes for stopping out the results are in. the heat sink with 35 leds came out to be exactly equal to a 10k 250 watt halide. We got about 750 par just below the water surface, 400 at the midlevel of the tank and maintained 200 on the sand bed. My lights are about 10 in. off the water surface and I use 80 degree optics. probably could have gotten alittle better with 70deg optics. I have mine running on 700 mA ballast drivers. Pauls will be even more kick butt since he is using 1000 mA ballast drivers. We tested these readings against my 10k 250 watt bulb and a 20k 250 watt bulb. The readings were all but one and the same of the 10k bulb. When testing the 20k we got right at half of the 10k. so the end results are the led's have the same strength of usuable light that the 10k halide has with more color range of a 15 to 20k color range. After this confirmation I am extremely happy with this project.
jeff

Midwest Express · « **Reply #58 on:** July 29, 2010, 21:28:07 »

Quote from: jjoos99 on July 29, 2010, 19:22:01

well thanks to wes for stopping out the results are in. the heat sink with 35 leds came out to be exactly equal to a 10k 250 watt halide. We got about 750 par just below the water surface, 400 at the midlevel of the tank and maintained 200 on the sand bed. My lights are about 10 in. off the water surface and I use 80 degree optics. probably could have gotten alittle better with 70deg optics. I have mine running on 700 mA ballast drivers. Pauls will be even more kick butt since he is using 1000 mA ballast drivers. We tested these readings against my 10k 250 watt bulb and a 20k 250 watt bulb. The readings were all but one and the same of the 10k bulb. When testing the 20k we got right at half of the 10k. so the end results are the led's have the same strength of usuable light that the 10k halide has with more color range of a 15 to 20k color range. After this confirmation I am extremely happy with this project.
jeff

Awesome!

cyberwollf · « **Reply #59 on:** July 29, 2010, 22:01:00 »

Tank looked great Jeff. All you guys with your LEDs are making me want to build a set lol. It was cool to see the PAR readings. As Jeff said, Same PAR as 250w 10k, with the color of a 20k, while drawing less than half the power, and no bulb changes for >6 years. Nice!

I still think it would be great to make a "focusable" LED fixture. If you could aim each LED individually you could perfectly mix colors and only put the light where you needed it. You wouldn't waste power by have >200 PAR on the sandbed where you dont need it (but you could spotlight a clam!) I'd venture to say that you could use 20-30% less LEDs with the same level of PAR where you need it. Then throw in a few LEDs with wide optics (or a T5) for fill light. That would be my vision of LED's future in the hobby.

HUNGER · « **Reply #60 on:** July 30, 2010, 08:22:29 »

wow thats cool

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #61 on:** July 31, 2010, 15:49:33 »

Mine are now online......

Removed 740 watts of light (2 x 250MH + 3 T5s over driven)

Added 300 watts of LED light

Based on jjoos measurements, I should have plenty of PAR.

I'm debating about getting a single lamp t5 ballast and running 1 RedSun Bulb.

cyberwollf · « **Reply #62 on:** July 31, 2010, 15:57:57 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on July 31, 2010, 15:49:33

Mine are now online......

Removed 740 watts of light (2 x 250MH + 3 T5s over driven)

Added 300 watts of LED light

Based on jjoos measurements, I should have plenty of PAR.

I'm debating about getting a single lamp t5 ballast and running 1 RedSun Bulb.

Let me know when you want to check the check the PAR again.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #63 on:** July 31, 2010, 22:13:55 »

Paul
how do you like the color and shimmer of your lights? Wes really liked the shimmer of the leds. They shimmer even more then halides!!!
jeff

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #64 on:** July 31, 2010, 23:06:09 »

I like the color, although I plan to play around with intensities. I think I may want to run a single t5 red sun bulb too.

The shimmer is really cool. Especially in lower levels of light.

HUNGER · « **Reply #65 on:** August 01, 2010, 21:10:50 »

so do they realy give the same shimmer as a MH?

harleyrider · « **Reply #66 on:** August 01, 2010, 21:18:19 »

and then some!!

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #67 on:** August 01, 2010, 21:28:11 »

Quote from: HUNGER on August 01, 2010, 21:10:50

so do they realy give the same shimmer as a MH?

Actually more shimmer. Since there are white and blue LED's there are two distinct wavelengths of light coming into the tank. The surface of the water causes the light to "dance" around.

HUNGER · « **Reply #68 on:** August 01, 2010, 21:58:39 »

o ok

TechGuy · « **Reply #69 on:** August 02, 2010, 01:17:23 »

Its a weird shimmer. The blue and white shimmer independently. Its a weird holographic thing. I like the way the blues make corals look, but I hate the shimmer. Something you should check out though.

HUNGER · « **Reply #70 on:** August 02, 2010, 08:15:41 »

ya i need to but it will be hard to get away from hm

slandis3 · « **Reply #71 on:** August 02, 2010, 08:35:23 »

So how much would it cost me to build one of these for my 12g nano cube?

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #72 on:** August 02, 2010, 15:56:21 »

Quote from: slandis3 on August 02, 2010, 08:35:23

So how much would it cost me to build one of these for my 12g nano cube?

look at nanotuners.com They have DIY kits for Nano tanks

Midwest Express · « **Reply #73 on:** August 02, 2010, 20:33:33 »

Shimmer on the LED fixtures... Awesome!

I got to check out Jeff's setup. I love the color of the royals and white. The shimmer on the substrate is hypnotizing!

Can't wait to get my build on the road for my 125 gal light setup!

HUNGER · « **Reply #74 on:** August 02, 2010, 20:37:49 »

ya will have to check it out and see what all the talk is about

Midwest Express · « **Reply #75 on:** August 02, 2010, 21:24:42 »

The talk is all about a big buffet platter of awesome covered in grav-awesome, with a side of awesome and tall frothy glass of awesome, finished with some awesome Ã la mode!

Just sayin...

HUNGER · « **Reply #76 on:** August 02, 2010, 21:29:07 »

Quote from: Midwest Express on August 02, 2010, 21:24:42

The talk is all about a big buffet platter of awesome covered in grav-awesome, with a side of awesome and tall frothy glass of awesome, finished with some awesome Ã la mode!

Just sayin...

nice

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #77 on:** August 03, 2010, 21:19:40 »

Yikes........wheres all that heat.........

My fan used to run all afternoon. Now it runs 25% of the time. This winter, I may have too low evaporation that I may have problems being able to add Kalk in top off.

HUNGER · « **Reply #78 on:** August 03, 2010, 22:43:42 »

just walk out the door its outside

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #79 on:** August 07, 2010, 22:35:45 »

Quote from: jjoos99 on July 29, 2010, 19:22:01

well thanks to wes for stopping out the results are in. the heat sink with 35 leds came out to be exactly equal to a 10k 250 watt halide. We got about 750 par just below the water surface, 400 at the midlevel of the tank and maintained 200 on the sand bed. My lights are about 10 in. off the water surface and I use 80 degree optics. probably could have gotten alittle better with 70deg optics. I have mine running on 700 mA ballast drivers. Pauls will be even more kick butt since he is using 1000 mA ballast drivers. We tested these readings against my 10k 250 watt bulb and a 20k 250 watt bulb. The readings were all but one and the same of the 10k bulb. When testing the 20k we got right at half of the 10k. so the end results are the led's have the same strength of usuable light that the 10k halide has with more color range of a 15 to 20k color range. After this confirmation I am extremely happy with this project.
jeff

So I was playing with the par meter today. My tank is a 90 gal tank. So I have two fixtures. These measurements were all done with the pumps all running in the tank. My Vortecs chop the surface of the water quite a bit, so the values I read from the meter were average values at a given point.

- Running 250w MH DE bulbs (14k Reeflux bulbs) Also had a t5 50/50 and Actinic bulb running. I had about 250par about 10" under the water. Par at the sandbed was about 150-170. I would have to blame this on the Parabolic reflectors MH fixtures I was using.

Now I'm running only LED's - no T5 light
LED setup is 35 - 3 Watt CREE XR-E Per fixture (18 White, 17 Blue)

With No Optics, At the same depth as above, Par was about 220 (LED's driven at about 700ma)
Adding 80degree optics added 80 points to the Par value. Added 50 points at the sand bed
Driving the LED's to the full rated 1000ma, added an additional 50-60 par.

Midwest Express · « **Reply #80 on:** August 07, 2010, 22:41:02 »

Drool!

HUNGER · « **Reply #81 on:** August 07, 2010, 22:42:35 »

wow thats good

cyberwollf · « **Reply #82 on:** August 07, 2010, 22:55:45 »

Sounds like a good starting point. man i wish MH were as easy as dialing up or down voltage for more par lol

TechGuy · « **Reply #83 on:** August 07, 2010, 23:03:09 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on August 07, 2010, 22:35:45

So I was playing with the par meter today. My tank is a 90 gal tank. So I have two fixtures. These measurements were all done with the pumps all running in the tank. My Vortecs chop the surface of the water quite a bit, so the values I read from the meter were average values at a given point.

- Running 250w MH DE bulbs (14k Reeflux bulbs) Also had a t5 50/50 and Actinic bulb running. I had about 250par about 10" under the water. Par at the sandbed was about 150-170. I would have to blame this on the Parabolic reflectors MH fixtures I was using.

Now I'm running only LED's - no T5 light
LED setup is 35 - 3 Watt CREE XR-E Per fixture (18 White, 17 Blue)

With No Optics, At the same depth as above, Par was about 220 (LED's driven at about 700ma)
Adding 80degree optics added 80 points to the Par value. Added 50 points at the sand bed
Driving the LED's to the full rated 1000ma, added an additional 50-60 par.

Thats what I needed to know! It seems everyone is running them a bit low. Whats the max current of the LED's? The rated life, what percent of the max is that?

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #84 on:** August 08, 2010, 00:44:17 »

Quote from: TechGuy40 on August 07, 2010, 23:03:09

Thats what I needed to know! It seems everyone is running them a bit low. Whats the max current of the LED's? The rated life, what percent of the max is that?

The the Cree XR-E's max current is 1000ma. to Drive at that current, you need a voltage of 3.7v per LED. The datasheets are a bit vague. But they say that they will maintain >70% of their output at 50,000hours. The caveat is that you don't overheat them. <80C junction temperature. Of course you cannot measure the temperature at the junction. So keep them as cool as possible. Like any semiconductor they operate better cold.

If I didn't have a controller doing dimming control. I would probably go with 1000ma drivers on the whites and 700ma drivers on the blues. That appears to yield a nice 12-14k appearance.

HUNGER · « **Reply #85 on:** August 08, 2010, 10:33:19 »

so 10 hours a day that will last about 13 years?

TechGuy · « **Reply #86 on:** August 08, 2010, 11:51:13 »

Speaking of cool. Mendalsons has a bunch of peltier units mounted to heat-sinks you may be able to use. Would have to remove the bottom sink, and mount a solid plate on it for the leds. That would keep them cool.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #87 on:** August 08, 2010, 11:53:53 »

Quote from: TechGuy40 on August 08, 2010, 11:51:13

Speaking of cool. Mendalsons has a bunch of peltier units mounted to heat-sinks you may be able to use. Would have to remove the bottom sink, and mount a solid plate on it for the leds. That would keep them cool.

Where at in that massive upper floor.

HUNGER · « **Reply #88 on:** August 08, 2010, 16:05:17 »

ya on 2nd floor ya going to get one to cut up to make some little holders for some leds to hang off the mh refltors there like 5 bucks for a 9inch by 9inch piece

motley · « **Reply #89 on:** September 02, 2010, 14:04:32 »

just placed an order for the 24led kit. with what i have been reading this should replace a 250mh over a 65 show with mainley lps coral.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #90 on:** September 02, 2010, 18:03:20 »

the 24 leds should work out for lps. what is the length of the tank? Might be a stretch for just 24 leds to cover your tank. 24 leds will be close to the strength of a 250 watt 20k bulb. Mine tested out with 36 led to be equal to a 10k bulb with the color of about 14k .
jeff

motley · « **Reply #91 on:** September 02, 2010, 22:07:54 »

my tank is 36l 18w 24h im going to starte with 18 cool white and 6 blue led all run by two dimmable manwell ballests. just thought id play with it till i get it just right. and may add 12 more led's depending on what it looks like. and how the corals are

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #92 on:** September 02, 2010, 22:19:24 »

That is going to be pretty white. What K range are you shooting for. I'm running 18 white and 17 blue. on each of my fixtures.

What meanwell drivers did you get?

ELN-60-48D's can run 14 3Watt CREE LED's at full power (50-51volts, 1000ma). Your going to need a voltmeter and a current meter to tune the drivers properly so you don't overdrive. I set my dimmable circuit to a full 10vdc, then tune the voltage and current trim pots to get the max current......the voltage should fall where it wants to, provided your not pushing more power than the driver will give you.

I also have some ELN-30-27D drivers that should run about 8 of the 3W CREE's......have to finish that project yet.

motley · « **Reply #93 on:** September 02, 2010, 22:38:06 »

i looking for a 12k and yes it's the 60-48d ballast

TechGuy · « **Reply #94 on:** September 02, 2010, 23:32:42 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on August 08, 2010, 11:53:53

Where at in that massive upper floor.

Just seen this post. Second floor, near the PC stuff. Very edge, of the first isle.

What in the holy crap happened to the forum just now?

Lazy, quit tinkering lol.

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #95 on:** September 03, 2010, 23:56:15 »

Quote from: motley on September 02, 2010, 22:38:06

i looking for a 12k and yes it's the 60-48d ballast

Pretty sure my arrangement is in the 14-16k range.

motley · « **Reply #96 on:** September 04, 2010, 09:01:30 »

Quote from: Wall_Tank on September 03, 2010, 23:56:15

Pretty sure my arrangement is in the 14-16k range.

alright thanks im also going to use my t5 blue + to even the color out alittle bit.

CoralBeauties · « **Reply #97 on:** September 04, 2010, 09:27:22 »

how large of a heat sink? my sink is 14 in, I have the 80deg optics and am about 10in off the water and mine wouldnt do a good job on a 36in tank in the way of coverage for the whole tank without mounting it pretty high. i agree with wall you will have a pretty white looking light. You will need your supplemental lighting to soften the color. I also went with a 50/50 mix of whites vs blues and the look is just about perfect color wise.
Jeff

motley · « **Reply #98 on:** September 04, 2010, 14:53:39 »

my heat sink is just 8 by 12 im planning on adding around 12 more led's later to replace the t5's. could i use like 18 or 16 guage wire to wire them or would it be best to go with 20 guage hobby wire?

Wall_Tank · « **Reply #99 on:** September 04, 2010, 16:39:04 »

16 or 18 gauge wire is a bit to thick. Will be harder to work with. Not sure what you mean by hobby wire, but 20 gauge wire is not a problem

Cole Harlow · « **Reply #100 on:** March 07, 2011, 18:37:22 »

where are the pictures and how big of a tank is this going on

DarinSchmidt · « **Reply #101 on:** March 29, 2011, 13:34:32 »

soooo..... whats going on with this build? its been 22 days overdue for an update

2024 Ohio Reef Frag Swap

Author Topic: Project LED (Read 15051 times)

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