What do i test for in a reef tank?

[j80]

What do i test for in a reef tank? I check PH,nitrite,nitrate and ammonia. I have an old kit for KH which is 13 and calcium which is 560. Also what should i add to the tank? I have purple up, iodine, calcium, marine snow, phytoplankton, reef builder and ph 8.3 buffer and have just stopped using all of them. I also just started using RO/DI water to try to stop an algae problem. I have all soft coral and most are doing good except one rock of zoa's that wont open up. And the last thing is when i siphon the algae off my sand i take some sand with it, How do i kill the algae on the sand so i can re-use the sand? Its a 55 gallon reef tank

[lazylivin]

Sounds like you are well on your way to being a full blown hobbyist, next step is addict.... Anyway very soon you will put away your nitrite, nitrate and ammonia test kit. Those are typically used when a tank is fairly new. Always good to keep on hand in case you feel something is a miss. There are several parameters that are critical with keeping a successful reef tank after it's initial break in period. (6 months)
      - Alkalinity
      - Calcium
      - Magnesium
      - Phosphates
      - Temperature
       - Salinity

All of these items together are significant in building coral skeleton. The number one most critical item in my opinion is Stability. Especially in the case of temperature, salinity and alkalinity.

Temperature
Temperature by way of a controller that turns on a heater when temperature drops and fans when it increases. A fan should be a standard item just as a heater is. It has the capability of droping an average tank 2 to 3 degrees. Tanks can heat up fairly quickly when lighting comes on so the fan is to minimize and slow this process. The warmer a tank gets from lighting the quicker it will cool when they go out. Minimizing temperature fluctuation to 2 to 3 degrees can be done on most tanks with a bit of planning, proper sized fans and heaters and a basic controller.

Salinity
Salinity is likely the easiest to maintain and there isn't a reason for it deviate even a detectable amount. Water cools by evaporation, leading to a loss of fresh water. The salt doesn't evaporate so if you don't add fresh water at the rate of evaporation it will cause the salinity in the tank to rise. Additionally evaporation rate will change based on the interior humidity of your home. Increase in dry air and decrease with humid air. These variations can lead to salinity swings in a tank. If left up to a daily manual maintenance routine it will likely have swings and negative effects on your livestock. A Auto Top off Unit (ATO) is fairly easy to setup and will keep your tank salinity level consistent.

Alkalinity
Alkalinity is the most critical parameter in a reef tank. Lots of things can cause a alkalinity to be depressed, but the result is always the same. Coral Death. Keeping this parameter in check above all else should be your number one priority. Identify the daily alkalinity depletion in your tank by testing it each day. Adding a pre-measured amount then testing again 24 hours later. If it increased then reduce the daily dose, if decreased increase the daily dose. Once it stays consistent keep dosing at that rate. Eventually you can go to weekly and bi-weekly test. It is important to always test the same time every day and dose at the same time(s) per day. Never add soda ash or sodium bicarbonate (Alkalinity increaser aka PH Buffer) directly to your tank. It should be dissolved in fresh water and added slowly to a high flow area such as in your overflow. Here is a calculator to figure out your dosage. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/reef-calculator

Calcium and Magnesium
Both of these are required to build coral skeleton and work in conjunction with Alkalinity. A depressed value of these two parameters aren't typically going to kill corals however they won't grow without out them. Water can only handle a certain amount of these chemicals and when it gets out of proportion or two high it will precipitate out of the water. That can cause hardening of the sand, reduced biological filtration by clogging your porous rock and build up on equipment causing poor performance or even failure. Magnesium should be roughly 3x the calcium level. For example a calcium of 400 with a magnesium of 1200 is in proportion. Here is some good information to better understand the relationship between Alk, Ca and Mag

Phosphates
Phosphates are required and consumed by most living creatures in your reef tank. There is a balance between to much and not enough. Most of the times especially newer tank it is to much. There are lots of things that contribute to phosphates including everything you put in your tank. Minimizing feeding, keeping your equipment running top notch and if needed a phosphate reducing items can be used. Algae consumes phosphates very rapidly and efficiently. Having a sump with a macro algae and regular pruning of that algae is a great nutrient export. If that is not enough there are phosphate absorbers such as Granular Ferric Oxide. Additionally larger more frequent water changes with quality H2o can help keep phosphates in check.

There is a whole lot more then what I covered here so keep asking questions

[Kenn]

Great information Brian