Author Topic: new stand (Read 4531 times)

slandis3 · « **on:** December 01, 2009, 10:11:59 »

Ok well I really dis like the stand for our tank. So I am looking to build a new stand for our tank. Right now we have a marineland 250g, 60"x36"x29". But In a few years we are going to upgrade to a 300g 72"x36"x29". I want to keep it a tall stand, so my new stand will be 78"x40"x40" I want a 4" lip around the tank for looks. My question is should I go with 1.5"x1.5" .125"wall tube or 2"x2" .125 wall tube? Being around metal for the last 14 years tells me go 2" or bigger but I really think I am over doing it with that. The main goal with the new stand will be build a acrylic "catch" basin so I don't get a call from my wife at 10 till 9 at work saying water is coming from under the stand (yes great way to start my day) . The next is space. Not using the 2"x6" lumber will save a bunch of room. Lets hear what all you engineer type have to say.

P.s we will reuse the doors

Joel · « **Reply #1 on:** December 01, 2009, 11:04:51 »

Balsa wood and cardboard tubes sound good.

RTN_H8ter · « **Reply #2 on:** December 01, 2009, 11:06:12 »

Quote from: Joel on December 01, 2009, 11:04:51

Balsa wood and cardboard tubes sound good.

Thats what we used. Actually, you would be surprised just how stong cardboard can be.

slandis3 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 01, 2009, 11:35:59 »

Quote from: RTN_H8ter on December 01, 2009, 11:06:12

Thats what we used. Actually, you would be surprised just how stong cardboard can be.

Well I don't see to many houses being built out of that stuff.

RTN_H8ter · « **Reply #4 on:** December 01, 2009, 11:37:47 »

Quote from: slandis3 on December 01, 2009, 11:35:59

Well I don't see to many houses being built out of that stuff.

It was a joke. I do see many Concrete pillars being built with carboard tubes though.

slandis3 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 01, 2009, 11:39:35 »

Yea I know it was a joke.

NEWMAN · « **Reply #6 on:** December 01, 2009, 12:10:59 »

I would go with the 2"-1/8" wall. Bigger tubing means less bracing and crossmembers and No second guessing "Is it strong enough" In all reality you know, strength structurally the smaller 1.5"-1/8" wall tubing with more bracing would be stronger than the bigger 2"-1/8" wall tubing with less bracing. Your trying to avoid alot of bracing so you can remove your sump and to do maintenance from the front or sides. Also I stress to you that steel and saltwater aren't best friends

, so If you plan on keeping this setup for years to come, get it powder coated from a local shop. It shouldn't be more than $75 bucks a would think because a quote on the Huge yellow hook was $30. I have a couple Painted steel crossmembers on the backside on my doors for my stand and after 4 years there rusted bad. Not just surface rust but pitted deep, I just sanded them down acouple days ago.

P.S Make the canopy out of the 2"-1/8" wall too...LOL

slandis3 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 10, 2010, 18:43:47 »

I have decided to go with 1.5" .080" wall tube. I am going to order the tube in a few weeks. If i can find a big infrared heater I could powder coat it my self, otherwise I will take it somewhere and have it done.

HUNGER · « **Reply #8 on:** January 10, 2010, 19:38:33 »

cool there that place in piqua that does powder coating dont know how much they charge tho

slandis3 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 10, 2010, 19:40:45 »

Expensive. There are a few places in dayton im gonna try. I may just have to blast it and hit it with etching primer, then chassis black.

Secondgen · « **Reply #10 on:** January 10, 2010, 19:42:00 »

Quote from: HUNGER on January 10, 2010, 19:38:33

cool there that place in piqua that does powder coating dont know how much they charge tho

They are called Asthetic Finishers, and they will powder coat anything. They are on 25A just up from the Piqua power plant.

HUNGER · « **Reply #11 on:** January 10, 2010, 19:48:52 »

ya that would work or rinor liner

Secondgen · « **Reply #12 on:** January 10, 2010, 19:52:01 »

I have seen a few with Rhino Liner. They look pretty good.

HUNGER · « **Reply #13 on:** January 10, 2010, 19:55:28 »

so have i i think they look perrty good

slandis3 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 10, 2010, 19:58:19 »

I may use soemthing like this

http://www.eastwood.com/2k-ceramic-chassis-black-gloss-qt.html

HUNGER · « **Reply #15 on:** January 10, 2010, 19:59:57 »

ya that would work would only need what 1 can

Reefd Up · « **Reply #16 on:** January 10, 2010, 20:00:30 »

Who's doing the welding?

HUNGER · « **Reply #17 on:** January 10, 2010, 20:02:03 »

lol not it

slandis3 · « **Reply #18 on:** January 10, 2010, 20:03:36 »

I would need all this to do it right. About 96.96 + shipping

http://www.eastwood.com/2k-ceramic-chassis-black-gloss-qt.html

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-urethane-activator-8-oz.html

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-epoxy-primer-gray-quart-1-1.html

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-epoxy-primer-catalyst-quart-1-1.html]

HUNGER · « **Reply #19 on:** January 10, 2010, 20:05:22 »

that aint to bad iv spent a lot more with wood

slandis3 · « **Reply #20 on:** January 10, 2010, 20:07:33 »

I really hope to have the stand done by early summer then start working on the sump. I am hoping to have it all readyt to change over by the end of July.

HUNGER · « **Reply #21 on:** January 10, 2010, 20:08:36 »

that bee cool

slandis3 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 10, 2010, 20:11:22 »

Myself and my dad. will be doing all the fab work including the welding.

2024 Ohio Reef Frag Swap

Author Topic: new stand (Read 4531 times)

slandis3

RTN_H8ter

slandis3

RTN_H8ter

slandis3

slandis3

slandis3

slandis3

Reefd Up

slandis3

slandis3

slandis3