Author Topic: dori has a little bit of ich (Read 4306 times)

Travis8896 · « **on:** April 26, 2013, 00:08:40 »

Ok I got this beautiful blue tang from a friend a week and a half ago I noticed the ich a little while ago but didn't realize what it was until joe(twisted) came over and confirmed it was ich. I don't have a qt setup yet but I was wondering what all can I do to prevent it from spreading to other fish and how to treat it. I am getting some green seaweed that I plan to soak in garlic before feeding to the tang what else can I do?

Would a cleaner wrasse help control the ich the lfs has one at a decent price and was just wondering?

Please don't tell me my tank inhabitants are doomed I have a sailfin tang, a pair of maroon gold banded clowns, a spotted mandarin, 4 green chromis, a yellow coral goby, 2 fire fish gobies, a tri color wrasse, a bangii cardinal, 2 freshwater mollies I converted over to salt, and a 6line wrasse

Ashlar · « **Reply #1 on:** April 26, 2013, 00:11:27 »

Well, there's no magic cure that you can dump in your tank to make the ich go away-- at least not one that won't kill the coral and inverts.

In a perfect world, you'd be able to set up a qt for all your fish, treat them with either hyposalinity or copper, and wait 6 weeks for the ich in the main tank to die.

Short of that? Feed well and hope. Getting the regal tang out won't really help, the parasite is already in the system.

Travis8896 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 26, 2013, 00:15:38 »

Will the food help them fight it off? And I have a 40gallon Hex I'm planing on setting up but I don't think that's big enough for all the fish

Ashlar · « **Reply #3 on:** April 26, 2013, 00:18:33 »

Like any animal, being well fed does help fight off parasites, but it will likely always be in your tank, in one stage / fish or another.

Travis8896 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 26, 2013, 00:22:00 »

Ok do u think the cleaner wrasse would help any I've read that some say yes some say no

Ashlar · « **Reply #5 on:** April 26, 2013, 00:23:58 »

Not really, no.. the bumps that you see on fish aren't the parasite itself; they're the inflammation under the skin, like a fire ant or mosquito bite (except the parasite burrows under the skin).

Travis8896 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 26, 2013, 00:27:15 »

Ok would the 40 hex be a big enough qt. For all the fish?

Ashlar · « **Reply #7 on:** April 26, 2013, 00:32:05 »

I wouldn't, if I had those fish, no. I'd do about 1/3 of your fish in that size qt, especially if you do end up doing hypo or copper.

Travis8896 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 26, 2013, 00:34:44 »

Ok so for now just feed them and pray. What should I do if gets worse

charlieweaver · « **Reply #9 on:** April 26, 2013, 07:53:22 »

I have the same problem but I have all fish in qt now and i am treating. I did read you could do hypo in The display. Just setup the 40. And put all live rock, corals, and inverts in the 40. Then do hypo in the display tank?

Sent from my HTC6435LVW

volcano · « **Reply #10 on:** April 26, 2013, 08:15:38 »

Quote from: Travis8896 on April 26, 2013, 00:34:44

Ok so for now just feed them and pray. What should I do if gets worse

If it gets worse, you will have no choice but QT. I would take all the fish out and QT anyway if they were my own. With that amount of fish, I would use multiple QT's. A tank can be crypto free, no matter what anyone tells you. Just be sure to treat them properly and allow the parasite in the DT to die off. QT's are cheap and easy to set up and they make it convenient to treat using copper or hypo. Your DT should sit fallow for 6 - 9 weeks. At 9 weeks you run a 99% chance of being crypto free. Good luck!

Travis8896 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 26, 2013, 08:48:03 »

With only 1 40gallon to use how should I qt the fish and does anyone have an extra qt tank I can use?

volcano · « **Reply #12 on:** April 26, 2013, 09:35:55 »

I'm not sure where you're located. However, I have a few 10 gallons and a 20 gallon tall. I'd sell them to you very cheap because I need the room.

Travis8896 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 26, 2013, 09:42:33 »

I'm near lima ohio

volcano · « **Reply #14 on:** April 26, 2013, 09:50:00 »

I'm in Lebanon, just south of centerville.

Travis8896 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 26, 2013, 09:52:14 »

Do u have filters for.them?

volcano · « **Reply #16 on:** April 26, 2013, 10:05:18 »

No, nope filters. However, you can put hang on the back filters on them for about $30 each. The 20 gallon tall is a drilled tank. If you don't want to use a sump for it, you can buy a cap to screw over the bulk head at lowes or The home depot for $1.00.

Travis8896 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 27, 2013, 18:51:50 »

Thanx but I'm only 16 I don't have the extra cash

volcano · « **Reply #18 on:** April 27, 2013, 18:56:37 »

They they're $40 for all.

Travis8896 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 27, 2013, 20:54:56 »

Ya then I'd need the filters

Mussin · « **Reply #20 on:** April 27, 2013, 21:27:55 »

Ill tell you what I used when I had an ich outbreak from my old "dori".. I used a product called kick ich.. It is reef safe. Read up onit and give it a try, I did and every fish that didnt have ich never got it. I did loose the hippo, kole tang and 1 clown who had it bad before I started the treatment. It worked for me, thats all im gonna say about it. Just throwing it out there...

Jeremy

Travis8896 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 28, 2013, 10:18:16 »

Ok where can u buy it from can u get it from jacks or pets plus?

Bucknutz · « **Reply #22 on:** April 28, 2013, 10:31:35 »

Quote from: Travis8896 on April 28, 2013, 10:18:16

Ok where can u buy it from can u get it from jacks or pets plus?

Tropical Reef in Toledo normally has kick Ich in stock.

Travis8896 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 28, 2013, 16:53:22 »

Well I was going to get it but for my tank its $50 a bottle

ReefFrenzy · « **Reply #24 on:** April 28, 2013, 18:31:36 »

Quote from: Travis8896 on April 28, 2013, 16:53:22

Well I was going to get it but for my tank its $50 a bottle

Before you spend the money, please jump over to Reef Central in the Disease Forum and read the stickies posted by Steve Norvich (Snorvich) as this parasite has a well documented life cycle. There is tons of information written on what works, and 3x as much faulty info floating around about how to "manage" Ich.

If your fish has ich, then your system has ich as well.

If you want to cure it for good, you need to QT the fish with Hypo, Cu, or Tank Transfer method and let the tank run fallow for 8 weeks.

It sucks, but I have "been there done that" and re-booted my 180 system last year after a horrible outbreak of Ich. I treated the survivors for 4 weeks with Cupramine at .4ppm, left them in a QT tank for an additional 5 weeks and ran the 180 empty to starve all the Ich because there were no fish hosts.

I know many choose to add cleaner shrimp, Kick ich, cleaner wrasses, UV, etc.....all of which are a band aid.

What you see a cleaner shrimp picking at is actually the scar tissue after the parasite burst through the epidermis of the fish. The parasite is already burrowed in the sand waiting to hatch hundreds of new tomites to infect your newly added and stressed fish. UV is fine, but it only kills what runs through the filter.....the parasite lives in the substrate for the most part and since fish sleep in the same spot every night, that is why they tend to wake up infected and in worse shape than when they went to sleep.

If you wish to keep any of the tangs with a drier skin and less protective slime coat, you will likely see the parasite on your fish as the life cycle repeats unless you treat it for good. You may see the symptoms disappear as the life cycle progresses, but you are only a power failure, new addition (IE- Stress), or other trigger to cause a massive outbreak.

Education about this parasite can save a lot of heartache (and dollars) in this hobby. Hope the links on RC help.

Larry

2024 Ohio Reef Frag Swap

Author Topic: dori has a little bit of ich (Read 4306 times)